Inline gas shut off

imacrazy

Senior Member
Gentleman, what kind of inline gas shutoff valve to you all use, and where can you buy them.
Thanks again.
Bill
 
I use a S/S (stainless steel) 1/4", 5/16" or 3/8" Ball valve and I get them from Ace Hardware.. There are not many "Big Box Stores" that carry them but your older / smaller hardware stores have them.. It is sometimes easier to also go to copper tubing because of the small distance you have to work in.... Jay
 
I had a leaking gasoline shut off valve on my snowblower. I replaced it with the valve shown in the picture below. That was about 4 years ago and it still works fine. I believe I bought it on eBay for about $4. The same valve should work on a model A with some rubber hose connections.
Rusty Nelson
 

Attachments

  • Plastic gas shut off valve.jpg
    Plastic gas shut off valve.jpg
    6.3 KB · Views: 107
I got this one from Amazon: (¼" Brass Ball Valve)
 

Attachments

  • Fuel Valve.jpg
    Fuel Valve.jpg
    15.1 KB · Views: 31
what kind of inline gas shutoff valve to you all use

What are you working on?
On a Model A, I use the stock Ford valve.
In other applications I've used ball valves.
 
One item that came with my Late 31' was an addition Inline gas valve, --yes not historically accurate but I know the gas will surely be cut...


20160728_142906-L.jpg


20160728_142916-L.jpg
 
Carl, does that valve rely on a Teflon seat for the ball?

This is what the description says:
Brass for corrosion resistance, ductility at high temperatures, and low magnetic permeability
Lever handle for manual on/off control
PTFE seats and stem packing reduce the risk of leakage
Maximum pressure rating of 600 psig for WOG and 150 psig for WSP
Female NPT threads for connecting to male threaded pipes
 
I have the same positive shut off valve from Brattons and it works great. The conical shut off valve on the firewall would leak just enough to be an issue with my new float valve and there would be a wet spot on the bottom of the carb. Problem solved:)
 
FWIW: Soft Copper Fuel Lines:

1. As a teenager in the 1950's, I had an almost straight soft copper gas line from my Model A 1930 Coupe settlement bowl to my carburetor, except for the 90 degree bends at both ends.

2. I was advised by my mechanic Dad, (born 1902 who knew T's & A's plus all of the other 1920 & 1930 cars back then), to put a 360 degree loop in this copper line mid-way to keep this soft copper line from flexing, experiencing metal fatigued, and breaking at one end or the other.

3. It was a driver where I drove it every day on unpaved roads and I did not heed his warning.

4. About a year later the copper line fractured at the carburetor connection, leaked gas, and caught fire while in my yard.

5. I extinguished the fire, placed the recommended 360 degree loop and had no problems afterwards.

6. Fortunately I was not out on a highway in traffic when it happened; but this was my first Model A lesson learned from an "experienced" vintage mechanic born in horse and buggy days.

7. It takes only once to learn rare accidents do not happen often .... but after they do, just once .... and we "almost" get burnt .... some of us like my Dad & I, usually re-evaluate our mechanical safety concepts & try to alert others about it.
 
Last edited:
Also, years ago in the Model A "Secrets of Speed" Magazine, Mr. Charles Yapp warned against using copper lines in "full-oil-flow" Model A engines from the oil pump to the main bearings because of experienced metal fatigue with vibrations followed by copper tube failure.

But, also, after a few warnings, cigarettes are still used by the daring "try & see" group.
 
Last edited:
FWIW: Soft Copper Fuel Lines:

2. I was advised by my mechanic Dad, (born 1902 who knew T's & A's plus all of the other 1920 & 1930 cars back then), to put a 360 degree loop in this copper line mid-way to keep this soft copper line from flexing, experiencing metal fatigued, and breaking at one end or the other.

A "Working Coil". Commonly seen on many steel brake lines at the master.
 
Back
Top