ing coil

19Fordy said:
hpk53:

Here's the resistor. Look at Post #2. It's on the driver side on firewall.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3934&highlight=1940+dash+resistor
Click to expand...
5180
 
coils should show continuity between the + and - studs (they could be marked with something like a "FLD" or "BAT" or some other mnemonics) but there will be no continuity at the high voltage (tension) outlet between either stud.

if hooked up to a battery such that one of the coil's studs is connected to one the of the battery's terminals and the other stud is connected to the other terminal, the coil will emit current (and a very, very high voltage current) from the center outlet to ground, only when one of the coil's studs is disconnected from the battery.

the voltage may be high enough to jump an air gap of up to an inch to get to ground.
 
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The high tension secondary is connected to one side of the primary but it doesn't form a circuit in a normal sense. It just has access to the breaker that way. Some old ones are marked sw and dist to keep polarity correct.
 
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THANK YOU FOR THE HELP THIS , IS MORE INF 1940 FORD BUINESS COUP FLATHEAD 6 VOLT , DISTRIBUTIOR / COIL IN FRONT OF ENGINE , ENGINE IS 221 , Have new coil im afraid to install thanks
 
If you are using reproduction 1937-41 Ford coils that look original that is likely your issues. They are made by carpenter and are truly junk/
 
That coil and the only original appearing "NEW" coil is made by carpenter. We are a carpenter dealer and refuse to stock them due to the issues with them. Your best bet is to have a original rebuilt by Skip Haney, or use a adapter plate with a modern type .8 ohm round coil.
 
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