Indented Firewall gas shut off options

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duke36

Well-known member
Have read numerous threads with pros and cons of elec. vs added shut off valves for the later '31 cars.
Is there a kit or other info. on how to install a manual cable or other means to operate the under hood valve so as not not have to open the hood ?
 
Call me old fashioned but I like my late 31' fuel shutoff in the engine bay and don't mind at all having to lift the hood to turn it off... (My battery cutoff mounted to the starter ) Adding electrical anything to the car adds to things that can break and or short out and makes your car a one-off, one of kind car... Surely your choice, the only thing I've added was a LED center brake light for obvious reasons...
 
I would be interested as well as seeing what others have done outside of the electric shut off. I had installed 2 of them - the first froze open and fuel began to pour out of the carb. The second one, the solenoid got so hot that I was concerned it was going to short out/cause a fire.

The item, A-9155-L31, I believe is a glass sediment kit if you don't have the side mount bowl on the late 31 carb.

I like being able to shut the fuel off and letting it run out right after I put the car in the garage. The electronic one would not allow it.
 
After posting, I went and looked at the valves again (not zenith carb) and remembered that cars including A's ran a service wire to a choke plate, etc. For the ball valve in the photo , which seals well with modern fuels, I drilled a hole in the valve lever and am going to run a stiff 3/32 or 1/8" wire thru a tiny grommet in the firewall. For longer period stops,can open hood and shut off both valves.
Sorry, the Barn right now won't allow photo up load? The small ball valve is attached directly to the horiz. stock brass valve port and then receives the stock gas line ferrule.
Update: valves photo attached with hole in ball valve lever. stiff wire run thru firewall
 

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Both on A's are indented firewall, I bought a new valve to thread into the tank, it lasted 7 years before it started to leak slowly in the off position.
On my other car I rebuilt an old valve using Tom W.'s trick of using toothpaste to lap in the valve stem into the body, that lasted 5 months.
Both care now have a 1/4" ball valve, bought from Graingers. So far so good. Both cars have a Marvel carb so no side bowl mount.
 
I don't have an indented fire wall but if your float seals nicely and the carb is in good condition and ran ocationaly why the need to turn it off I haven't bothered turning my off in 3 years and only reason I turned it off last time was to check the scream in the carberator.
 
1928Pickuppain said:
I don't have an indented fire wall but if your float seals nicely and the carb is in good condition and ran ocationaly why the need to turn it off I haven't bothered turning my off in 3 years and only reason I turned it off last time was to check the scream in the carberator.
Click to expand...

What was causing your carburetor to scream??
 
I added the electric shutoff to my wife's 31 roadster and added a push pull on and off switch that I mounted to one of the dash rail screws. You can't even tell it is there and my wife loves the convince
 
There is some sort of non-original gas shut off valve thing on our late indented firewall 31' Tudor. Remember seeing various type lines and connection parts offered by at least one Model A Ford parts dealer. The original side bowl carburetor connector lines are bent differently from retro-fit style gas bowl / filter units. When we got the car there was a regular (non side bowl) Zenith that has been since replaced by a Marvel carburetor. The existing replacement lines fit perfectly.
 
I have a late 31 Tudor, indented firewall, someone back in history drilled a hole in the firewall. Used a metal coat hanger for a push pull cut off.
 
I have been using the electric switch for 24,000 miles so far so good. I did put a extra switch in line with key switch so I could run it out of gas before I cut it off.
 
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