I'm not a Model A person

sorry the story had an unpleasant ending because they truly are a fun vehicle. Good luck finding something you will enjoy ! Be safe! Wayne
 
Here is my 2 cents worth. It sounds like you got sold a bill of goods that were not quite up to what was said it was. That being said you sound like you know mechanics since you owned a 50's Buick before.

That being said, I would stop and think about each system a bit. When you buy a new to you car that has been 'mokeyed with' over 90 years, things happen. I know you want to drive the car but you don't know what the competency of the previous mechanics was. That is not your fault or the previous owner as they may not have known.

But you, may want to look each system over and make sure it matches how Henry built it in the beginning. Then move to the next system. You will be surprised at how some things got 'fixed'. Then I think you will get a chance to enjoy her more on the open road. Basically you are going to have to wrench on her either at the beginning or later in life-i.e. on the side of the road. Sorry not trying to ramble, but I think you have a good car that just needs a little love to be a great car to cruise down the road in.

Mike
 
Mr. Garcia:
I have sent you a Private Message regarding this. Please review and respond.

Thank you.

Ray Horton
 
So what do you do when your engine dies after 90 seconds and you've done all the steps in the troubleshooting book?

I had a similar issue with mine when i first got it. I found that the screen inside of the gas tank was plugged with scale/rust. I ended up removing the gas line from the carburetor and blowing air back into the tank to get the junk pushed off of the screen. It hasnt had that issue since. If you try this, make sure you remove your gas cap and go easy with the air. Im not sure if this will be your fix but it worked for me. Id say its worth a try.
 
So what do you do when your engine dies after 90 seconds and you've done all the steps in the troubleshooting book?




The engine shouldn't die after 90 seconds. If it did, I'd fix it.
The problem shouldn't be too hard to find and we're here to help. We can walk you thru it.
Just let us know the basics, like where there is power and not, if there is fuel or not.
 
I bought my Model A from a reputable person, who did very good restorations. He was convinced the car was in excellent shape when he sold it to me, and most of it was in excellent shape. However, the car was parked a while before he sold it, which is about the worst thing that can happen to any car. It turns out the car had some issues that he didn’t know about and some issues developed after I started driving the car regularly. I ended up having to fix number of things shortly after purchasing the car.

I’ve had three antique cars (1957 Fairlane, 1965 Mustang, 1931 Model A), and I’ve had pretty much the same story with each of them, because all of them had been parked a while before purchase. (It seems previous owners don’t want to sell until they are convinced they are not driving the cars enough.) However, once you get the Model A sorted out, it is an incredible car. I usually meet a couple new friends each time I take it to the gas station and wherever else I go. Yes, there was a learning curve with my car (and I have much more to learn), but it generates more smiles per mile than any other car I’ve owned.

Several folks have recommended Model A clubs. I’ve been a member of 4 car clubs over the years, and, by far, our Model A club is the friendliest and most helpful of the bunch.

Oh, by the way, my Model A is more reliable than the 1957 Fairlane that I had. Lately, it’s also been more reliable than my 1965 Mustang.


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Well I definitely understand your position as I have known others like yourself in a similar scenario. The likely issue is you purchased a car that you were told was Restored, however in reality, it probably wasn't, ...and now that is affecting your joy. You must remember however, the Model-A was VERY reliable when it was new, ...and can be when it is properly and thoroughly restored to be like it was when new. A 1956 Cadillac can be a unreliable car just like a worn Model-A can, ...so it really isn't that you aren't a Model-A guy, its more than you are a poor soul that was mislead on what you were purchasing. None the less, best wishes and hopefully you will find a better quality vehicle to enjoy.


I was in his shoes, recently, too. This is exactly what happened to me. My '28 is a restored car and I bought it, drove it the 65 miles home and now it sits in the garage awaiting an engine overhaul missing out on summer fun. I put it up for sale once, but backed out and now I'm feeling better and buckling down for the long haul! These are great cars and I'm sure one day I'll enjoy it.
 
I have seen club members who didn't know which end of the wrench to grab learn quickly and become comfortable driving long distances by themselves.
You don't have to join a club but that is usually the best place to find a mentor.
Often they will refuse payment for working on your car because it is such therapeutic fun for some of us.....
So don't be too quick to sell.
 
I can’t believe what I am reading here. These are 90 year old USED cars. Most have had “many” different owners. Just like any used car, there has been no service, bad service, and good service done on them. No Carfax to check, no recalls to confirm being done. In most cases it’s a crap shoot.

On the plus side. Do you think that 50 Buick will make it to 90 years old in the same numbers remaining as the Ford Model A? How about parts?

There is junk for sale out there, whether it’s a Model A or a Mustang. Junk is just that, junk.

If your buying any antique or classic, buy it like you would your family car. As few owners as possible, have it checked out completely, if you have concerns walk away, restored contact Brent or another respected restoration shop.

They are not all low mileage beauties out there. There are however a lot of well taken care of restored and un restored Model A’s that do come up for sale. Some owned and loved by the same family for generations. They need a good new home to go to. Maybe one of these should be you next antique/classic car.

Enjoy.
 
I had a similar issue with mine when i first got it. I found that the screen inside of the gas tank was plugged with scale/rust. I ended up removing the gas line from the carburetor and blowing air back into the tank to get the junk pushed off of the screen. It hasnt had that issue since. If you try this, make sure you remove your gas cap and go easy with the air. Im not sure if this will be your fix but it worked for me. Id say its worth a try.


Reminds me of the 1967 'Bonnie & Clyde' movie. "Dirt in the fuel line. Just blowed her away." I had this same thing with my 1955 Chevy truck some 30 years ago. The dealer worked on it and claimed it was a bad fuel pump. They replaced it and said they drove it for miles after that. Nope. It would idle just fine, but when I gave it the gas it would flat out stall. I did just what you are saying and it fixed it. I put a sock over the inlet and it was fine. They didn't give us our money back for the miss diagnosis, though.
 
I'm hoping you keep it, but that is up to you. I was recently feeling exactly like you, but I'm coming out of it. I think I just bought this car too soon after my wife's death and the shock of buying a restored car that needs so much work just drop-kicked me! I turned the corner last week, I think. I'm looking forward to having it on the road someday. Hopefully before the snow flies. I keep asking questions and learning more. This really is a great group of car people that are very helpful. I've met so many people since I delved into this Model A hobby back in May. It's certainly not the first old car I've ever had and it might not be the last. (craving a Model T now) I almost bought a '38 Ford Tudor, but a friend of mine talked me out of it and said I'd be better off with an 'A'. The only complaint I would have is that it's really cramped around the pedals, but I'll get used to that. I drove it home 65 miles (without knowing anything about it) and it was really comfortable. I really am wanting to take this car on drives across the state someday! The nearest club is an hour away so I'm not sure if I'll ever get around to joining a club. We'll see.
 
I'm actually hoping I can sell the thing, but I'm almost nearing the level of frustration where I would pay somebody to take it away.

I feel like Mick Jagger:

Nothin' I do don't seem to work,
It only seems to make matters worse.

just drive it and enjoy it
 
The engine shouldn't die after 90 seconds. If it did, I'd fix it.
The problem shouldn't be too hard to find and we're here to help. We can walk you thru it.
Just let us know the basics, like where there is power and not, if there is fuel or not.

I started working through the steps in the Andrews troubleshooting book, and after I passed the test for a strong spark from the coil wire to ground, I did the coil test and secondary coil failed. I have a new coil on order, so we'll see what that does.

I had previously been confused about having a strong spark with a bad condenser, but I did have a strong spark, so I guess I can have one with a bad coil.
 
I had a similar issue with mine when i first got it. I found that the screen inside of the gas tank was plugged with scale/rust. I ended up removing the gas line from the carburetor and blowing air back into the tank to get the junk pushed off of the screen. It hasnt had that issue since. If you try this, make sure you remove your gas cap and go easy with the air. Im not sure if this will be your fix but it worked for me. Id say its worth a try.
I had to do this routine when I had my 1976 MG Midget. I used to call it "burping the baby". Every time I pushed her over 60, it would sputter, then die. I'd pull over, pull the gas line (rubber on this with little to no fuel pressure in this era), blow into it and hear the burp in the gas tank. Reconnect and I was good as gold - as long as I kept it under 60 (sediment would increase with fuel flow, resulting in the snowball effect clogging the line). I eventually got it fixed after my wife finally refused to ride with me in it, but to this day we still laugh at burping the baby.
 
I completely get your position here, OP.

My Model A (recently acquired) has been in my family for generations, I'm totally honored to be its custodian for my time on this earth and its just so cool to have such a treasured heirloom... that being said, if I were to go out and buy a car right now, I'd buy something more suited for problem free touring and not a 90 year antique on the bleeding edge of early technology.

Hard-core enthusiasts on specialty forums who are super-super-super-super dedicated to their niche and have years/decades of study into it are going to underestimate how 'easy' things are for people who aren't similarly positioned in terms of experience, equipment, knowledge and/or available time. To those guys, spending every weekend for 4 months troubleshooting a problem is the reward. To people who just want a car to drive, that's agony.

Bottom line, if touring is your interest and you aren't very insistent on the cool factor of doing it in a 90 year old car, there are better choices in vintage autos.

Your position is a fair one. Sell your car off to someone better suited to own it and move on to something better suited to you.
 
I started working through the steps in the Andrews troubleshooting book, and after I passed the test for a strong spark from the coil wire to ground, I did the coil test and secondary coil failed. I have a new coil on order, so we'll see what that does.

I had previously been confused about having a strong spark with a bad condenser, but I did have a strong spark, so I guess I can have one with a bad coil.

it's defiantly a learning process but you will learn it just don't give up because they are nice to drive and enjoy the country side

good luck
 
It is very possible to have a good condenser and bad coil. 9 times out of ten it is the other way around though. A could can short out after it gets hot and the only way to detect that is either on a machine built to do that or on the road and swap it out. You can get ‘burn proof condensers’ from the suppliers that hold up extremely well.

Another thing….if the engine sputters and dies then it is probably fuel. But if she cuts out instantly that is usually electrical.

Mike
 
I think Garcia has several issues with his Model A, which can be really frustrating. In an earlier post he indicated that his fuel filter was clogging rapidly. Now it seems there is an issue with the coil. It is no wonder he is ready to throw in the towel.

I have a friend who formed a partnership with a friend to start a garage that only worked on Model A's. He has done this for maybe 10 years and has helped many Model A owners with their cars. Many owners are not mechanically inclined so they were not able to sort out their cars, but my friend is very knowledgeable and was able to put the cars on the road for the owners to enjoy. I guess what I am saying is that if Garcia can locate someone who specializes in Model A's he may want to go that route. Once the car is sorted out it can be a fun car to own and very reliable.

The spark has to traverse the gap in the spark plug when the air and fuel are compressed which is harder to do than outside the cylinder. So a good fat spark at the end of the coil wire when held over the head may not be enough for a spark plug in an engine.
 
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