I'm Looking For A Engine...

Airplanemech

Airplanemech

New member
To start off this is my first post, I'm working on a 1931 Ford Model A Murray body. It was me and my Dads project car, before we really got anywhere with it he passed away. I've been working on it with my spare time (there's not a lot lately) but I called a professional to help out. He found a crack in the block and told me the motor is no good, it was real kick in the teeth. So I'm real motivated to get this project on the road.

I'm looking for an good engine in the Jacksonville FL area Ill drive a ways it I have to. I'll take any advice about the car, there's so much about the car that I never got to learn.
 
Where is the crack? They typically crack in a few locations due to water freezing in them but can be fixed. Time to get another opinion before dropping a few grand... You wouldnt have surgery because of one doctors opinion would you?
 
Its a hairline crack from the exhaust valve to the cylinder on #2. How it was explained to me was, because the valve had a bad split so over time due to the split the valve couldn't cool so the block cracked.
 
Welcome to our domain. For sure get another opinion or a couple more. I have had two blocks fixed that have lasted over five years. Wayne.
 
My advice is to check with a local Model A club. There is one in Daytona beach called the Cranking A's where my brother lives. Contact him at 386-672-3185 and ask for Paul. Good luck. Jack
 
Mine has two exhaust valve cracks that I had repaired via stitching. If is in a water jacket my other block ran fine for years with a JB Weld patch. I would have another person look at the block. If you have the time there are several people in the PA/IL areas that rebuild engines (check the stickie at the top of the forum).

Mike

PS. welcome to the forum and nice care!
 
For a couple of years I helped a friend rebuild Model A blocks at a local machine shop. We found that the 30/31 blocks seemed to be more prone to developing a hair line crack in the areas of the #2 and #3 exhaust valves than the 28/29 blocks. Why???? Anyway we repaired most of them with special pins. Depending on just how many cracks and how bad they are, it can probably be repaired by a good engine machine shop for under a couple hundred $$s. GET A SECOND OPINION FROM A GOOD ENGINE REBUILDER!!!!!
 
I suppose it would be nice to know the condition of the rest of the engine, especially the crank and rod bearings.
 
Art Newland said:
I suppose it would be nice to know the condition of the rest of the engine, especially the crank and rod bearings.
Click to expand...
yea that's true, if it needs babbit and resleeved I would look for another engine... Main reason I didn't rebuild the one in my truck was due to the fact it needs resleeved (.125 over with one cyl crusted with mouse pee) and several valve seats replaced. Didn't check the mains but would probably have everything redone at the same time if I were.
 
Airplanemech said:
Its a hairline crack from the exhaust valve to the cylinder on #2. How it was explained to me was, because the valve had a bad split so over time due to the split the valve couldn't cool so the block cracked.
Click to expand...

It can be fixed. I have done many over the years, not just Model A. See if you can find a shop that has been in business for a long time, that has a old guy that has worked there for a long time.

It is not a big deal you first fix the crack with tapper cast plugs, over lapped half way. Then install a valve seat, and cylinder sleeve.
 
engines come up everyday on Craigslist-there should be plenty near you with a little patience.

hot rodders dump them all of the time on the cheap.
 
Thank you so much, I will ask around at some nearby machine shops. But for the rest of the engine I'm not sure of the condition without a full brake down and inspection.
 
And as you might expect, this crack is not a candidate for JB Weld. Also, how far down into the port that the crack goes is a determining factor. At this point I'd strip it down and take it to a shop for magnaflux. Take the crank and cam also for evaluation. Then you will know what you have to work with in $$.
 
for example-you could get most of your money back here and end up with a free engine for a little effort.


CL



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1928 Model A Ford Chassis, Antique, Model A, A Model - $1400 (Clayton NC)



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make / manufacturer: Ford
model name / number: A


1928 Model A

Running
Driving
Fully functional
Full set of White wall tires
Brakes need some work

BODY and TITLE NOT INCLUDED !!!!!

Chassis, Tires, Wheels, Motor ( every thing less Body )

1400.00 OBO

Edward
show contact info
 
Airplanemech said:
Thank you so much, I will ask around at some nearby machine shops. But for the rest of the engine I'm not sure of the condition without a full brake down and inspection.
Click to expand...

If you need to rebuild the engine, then you might want a better block, if you can find one. But if it is fixed the right way it would not be a problem.
 
I have engines for re-build and I am in Jacksonville. Call me, 731- 0367. We can discuss engine re-builders also. Dale Gosa, Jacksonville Model A's.
 
Airplanemech said:
Its a hairline crack from the exhaust valve to the cylinder on #2. How it was explained to me was, because the valve had a bad split so over time due to the split the valve couldn't cool so the block cracked.
Click to expand...
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album...orum/picture.php?albumid=3019&pictureid=25129

This is the crack you are mentioning. If the shop can do crack repairs by stitching pins it can be repaired. No silly putty required for a permanent fix.
 
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