Ignition wiring WITHOUT Pop-out switch?

R

racer32

Senior Member
I'm new to the Model A, am attempting to get it fired up. I tried searching, but haven't really found anything relevant. My distributor does not have a lower plate or condenser in it. The cable housing from inside the cab doesn't have anything in it except a wire, and it was connected to the post on the bottom of the upper plate. Condenser is mounted on the coil. Obviously, this isn't the way Henry sent the car out. Does it make any difference on the rest of the wiring in the ignition circuit when the pop-out switch is replaced in this way?

This is the diagram I've found:

aa951edd.jpg
 
You need to find someone in a local Model A club who can give you some electrical system guidance. It sounds to me that you need a rebuilt stock distributor to start with. The condenser mounted on the coil may not be the one for the points. It may be someone's attempt at static suppression for a radio.

Tom Endy
 
On the coil primary terminals, one is for power (6 volts negative) and the other is for the points. If the condenser is mounted to the points (+) terminal then what you have should work. But, as Tom said, you are far better off setting it up as original. It will be more reliable and if it gives trouble most Model A guys will know where to look, so it will be quicker and easier to fix.
 
Wiring is the same pop out, no pop out switch. If you follow the wire in the drawing you will see that the condensor is attached to the same wire as the coil (Red). Electrically it is the same either in the dizzy, or on the coil.
 
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I know a lot of you guys don't like the modern upper plate, but I'm going to try it for now. Sounds like If I connect the wire coming from the ignition switch to the upper plate's point post and disconnect the existing condenser at the coil (+) it should work...assuming the rest of the wires follow the schematic. I'll check those wires today and see if I can get it sorted.
 
racer32 said:
I know a lot of you guys don't like the modern upper plate, but I'm going to try it for now. Sounds like If I connect the wire coming from the ignition switch to the upper plate's point post and disconnect the existing condenser at the coil (+) it should work...assuming the rest of the wires follow the schematic. I'll check those wires today and see if I can get it sorted.
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i actually dont mind the modern upper plate ,,its the wireless lower plate with the brass contact that i despise
 
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I believe that some folks mount the condenser on the firewall to minimize the risk of it being cooked due to proximity to the head, leaving you stranded by the road. I think you can assume that happened to the previous owner at least once. If you go back to original setup, it is even more important that you carry a spare.
 
racer32 said:
I know a lot of you guys don't like the modern upper plate, but I'm going to try it for now. Sounds like If I connect the wire coming from the ignition switch to the upper plate's point post and disconnect the existing condenser at the coil (+) it should work...assuming the rest of the wires follow the schematic. I'll check those wires today and see if I can get it sorted.
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It will run either way. It will just be more dependable with the original points. It will also be easier to adjust the points and time. The china condenser that comes with the modern setup will run cooler and last a little longer when connected at the coil. I can see no advantage with the V8 points. Its your model A.
 
Racer32, you state you are new to Model A's and need advice. You have come to the right place and you have been given very clear information on your setup with assurances that it will work, but with the caveat that it it would be better if you used an original setup. Then you respond by saying you're going to do it your way anyway. I don't understand this. It is not expensive or difficult to do it right, and the guys who have answered you are some of the most knowledgeable and experienced in the hobby. Why not take their advice? :confused:
 
steve s said:
I believe that some folks mount the condenser on the firewall to minimize the risk of it being cooked due to proximity to the head, leaving you stranded by the road. I think you can assume that happened to the previous owner at least once. If you go back to original setup, it is even more important that you carry a spare.
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Steve, aren't the new condensers bullet proof?(as if that was even possible)unfortunately I have an electronic ignition and therefore don't have much experience with condensers. Smiley face
 
The condensers that are used with the V8 setup are the ones that are now giving trouble. I have never had a problem or had to replace one of the A&L short proof condensers that most model A venders sell.
 
700rpm said:
Racer32, you state you are new to Model A's and need advice. You have come to the right place and you have been given very clear information on your setup with assurances that it will work, but with the caveat that it it would be better if you used an original setup. Then you respond by saying you're going to do it your way anyway. I don't understand this. It is not expensive or difficult to do it right, and the guys who have answered you are some of the most knowledgeable and experienced in the hobby. Why not take their advice? :confused:
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My OG points were pitted and the cam follower was worn out, the fixed point block was cracked across the top, and when I was trying to straighten the moveable arm on the old point set, I broke the fiber part the points mount to. I understand that the original design maybe be more reliable, but MY top plate was knackered. I also have what will probably be a lifetime (mine anyway) supply of NOS, Made in USA, Borg-Warner points and condensers that fit the NU-REX upper plate.

I got the plate based on the recommendation of Dennis at Piranio's Antique Automotive. A friend of mine, who is an experienced Model A guy, also said to get the modern point plate after he saw mine. My apologies if you are offended. I'm not saying I know more than the guys who have answered, and I appreciate the input. Forgive me for asking a question about hooking up my non-original parts. :rolleyes:
 
"Forgive me for asking a question about hooking up my non-original parts."

No foul, except maybe on my part. I just didn't understand why you would ask for advice but not take it. Now I understand. Take care of your car and make it what you want it to be and go out and have some Model A fun. It's all good. Though I still think Tom at post #3 gave you good advice. :)
 
700rpm said:
"Forgive me for asking a question about hooking up my non-original parts."

No foul, except maybe on my part. I just didn't understand why you would ask for advice but not take it. Now I understand. Take care of your car and make it what you want it to be and go out and have some Model A fun. It's all good. Though I still think Tom at post #3 gave you good advice. :)
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No prob, sorry if I came across as an a-hole.:o Several of the guys gave good advice, and I REALLY appreciate the help. At some point, I'll probably rebuild the dizzy and return it to the original configuration. For right now, though, I just need to see if I can get fire with what I've already got on hand...rebuilt distributors and OG points, condensers, and upper and lower plates are hard to get locally. I had hoped to get her started today, but it turns out my soldering iron, heat shrink, and my good wire crimpers were here at the house, and not at my shop.
 
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