Ignition / wheel lock cylinder, 1937 ford

Mine came with the key broken off inside. I will soak it tonight and see if I can try the wood drop. Thanks!
 
Bruce you were right about how soft the end of the thread is. I had slightly bent the end of 3 shafts even when using the steering wheel nut on 2 of them. I couldn't use the nut in the picture above as the 2 pins of my puller were too close together. Another job to do to tap the threads but good advice to anybody about to do this job.
Bruce Lancaster said:
A PS on my instructions: Threaded part of the shaft is surprisingly soft...DO keep the nut on the shaft right at the top. I actually collapsed the threaded area on a '32 once, which of course still gives me screaming nightmares and flashbacks.
If there is a horn wire you can fold the terminal eye a bit (this is '40-48 info) and push it down the tube a short ways.
Then, drop a bolt whose thread diameter is close to ID of shaft into the hole so it supports the puller ram, which otherwise would be trying to spread the shaft. I drill a small pit into the bolt head to center the point of the ram.
Click to expand...
 
Bruce/Dan,

That was the trick, there were already three dimples in the wheel face, so I drilled and tapped them and used a three way puller. Also I used the bolt in the shaft that Bruce recommended, worked slick, and the wheel popped right off.
Thanks,

Ralph
 
hi
, i want to remove my ignition lock cyl. from my 37. Is there a right way to do this? It looks like the little plug gets drilled out. any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Ernie
 
lots of penetrating oil, over and over again, for days maybe weeks. Gently tap the front of the cylinder with rubber or plastic mallet and it will start to move. Placing an old key in the slot and trying to turn the cylinder also helps, after it starts to move.
 
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