Ignition System Problems

when you remove the upper and lower plates from the distrib. put them together as they would be in the dist. housing to see what clearance you have for the pigtail wire. by looking at the sandwiched plates from above make sure there is clearance from the side of the housing. Bob
 
Today I confirmed that I have 6 volts at the conductor inside the armored cable. I have it after the armored cable is installed in the distributer as well.

If I hold the upper plate in my hand I have 6 volts at the point arm. When I install the upper plate I have intermittent voltage at the point arm. There is a short (intermitent) between the two plates that I was not able to verify or locate.

At this point I am going to get a new distributer as this one has some issues other than the short (cam wear, damaged screws etc.).

I am thinking about getting the modern top plate where the condensor is on the top plate.

Thanks for everyones help
Bob
 
The short is likely at where the spade lug connects to the terminal stud on the arm of the points. When you install the lug you have to bend it at a 90 degree angle so that it will clear the side of the housing so that when you operate the spark handle, and the lug rotates, it clears everything.

The wire that connects the two plates is also a special wire (Bratton's carries them) that is multi-strand and very flexible. Many "restored" distributors have an incorrect wire in place and it creates problems such as you are experiencing. The wire needs to be very flexible so it can withstand the constant movement caused by the spark handle. When I rebuild a distributor I also add a large thin insulated washer under the stud of the arm of the points to further ensure it does not short out.

My suggestion is that you correctly rework the distributor you have and leave it as Henry designed it. The modern stuff may work ok, but it doesn't really add anything and it could just create more problems for you.

The area where you live, Temecula, has an abundance of Model A folks. If you are not a member of the Palomar Model A club, you should consider joining. One of those folks could have your car running in no time.

Tom Endy
 
Thanks for the information Tom. I may just repalce the upper and lower plates and the cam. I did join the Temecula Valley Model A Club and have met a lot of nice helpfull folks. Two of them have been to the house and tried to find the problem but with little luck. I must say though that we did not suspect it was in the distributor. I have had folks from the club loan me a coil and carburetor but when we worked on trying to get it to run the spark issue was intermittent.

Thanks

Bob
 
This is a "reprint" from 12-07-10 posting ...



Bob,

Steve Becker and Phil Turner at Bert's told me about this ...

I have been fighting this for a couple of weeks! Most Frustrating problem I have had for a long time!

I have seen a problem with the skinny armoured cables where the "rivet" is not crimped to the wire very well. Result is a very intermittent spark. Sometimes no spark and then engine misses. Sometimes no start at all.

See attachments:

The "rivet" is supposed to be crimped. This one was crimped but is loose.

Pull hard on the "rivet" while holding the wire. Then push the two together and repeat the operation. You will hear and feel a "click" and if you look close while doing this the wire will move.

Steve at Berts said this was so much of a problem that they stopped selling these cables for a long time.

Recently A & L started to make these and they are of much better quality.

I have not taken an A & L cable apart to see how they are made or if they are soldered or not.

Bert's has stock on these new cables as of yesterday.

To install, Phil said to start the screw, turn a little then check for spark, when you finally get spark then turn 1/ 1/2 or 2 turns more.

Be aware that if you turn too far that you may bend the plate inside and short it to the distributor case.

Another problem I found just a couple of hours ago (thanks Phil). The part that screws into the distriburtor will backout due to vibration and then the "rivet" stops making conact and the spark goes away. A dab of 3m contact cement or blue loctite (not red) on the threads will stop it from loosening.
 

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