Ignition switch questions

[Great Lakes Greg]

My key hole says "69", which I assume is the number of the key I need to find to make it operate, right?
I want to remove the switch from the plate for sandblasting/paint. All I see are the two rivets on the front and some bend tabs on the back. I wish to know how to proceed without wrecking it. Any tips?

 

[sparknwire]

 

[stevests]

The two rivets on the front hold the lever captive - which holds the lock tumbler captive. The rear bend over tabs, once straightened will allow removal of the switch insides and the lever - use caution once you remove the lever & tumbler as the internal tumbler pieces CAN fall out.

 

[Dick Webber]

That's really helpful information to deal with my related question. My switch is stuck. I shot it full of PB Blaster and left it, but no help. I have a Ford key matching the lock number but don't want to get too muscular with it. I assume gentle heat is a bad idea so taking it apart seems the solution.

Ideas??


Thanks

 

[racemo]

Greg, Here is what I did and it worked out well. Lay the switch panel face down. Pry open the tabs to disassemble the switch, cautiously. Carefully, lift off the cardboard contact panel. Photograph the copper rings of revolving contacts before removing. Lift them out and you may want to tweak them a little to increase contact pressure prior to reassembling.

Drill out the two rivets you mentioned and you will have the selector lever and face plate free to clean & paint. Locate hollow brass rivits, not the split brake lining type. Chuck them up in a drill motor to spin them, and with a file, reduce the head diameter. File to length for re-assembly. Good luck...

 

[Farmallcub49]

If once it is disassembled, you find you need to replace parts, don't buy anything bu the black phenolic plastic kit, more money, but the other kits are junk. I found it is best to have a competent rebuilder fix these. I know of one and stock is his rebuilt switches.

 

[Great Lakes Greg]

Excellent. Thanks men.