Ignition Options

Tiny

Tiny

Well-known member
I'm looking at upgrading the ignition system on my car.
Here are the options I'm looking at, what are your thoughts, experiences, opinions, prejudices?:D:D:D

1. Leave it alone!! I currently have a stock distributor and coil with "modern points" and a Snyders "B" distributor cam. I know, I know, the points set up was free and it works.

2. Petronix 6v coil #40011 and a Bill Stipe distributor Cam. Keep the manual advance

3. Convert a stock distributer to an FS set up. Still manual advance

4. Buy a "B" distributor and perform one of the above options to it.

5. Bubba's ignition Mallory. I like the looks, I like points and it advances itself.

6. Buy and rebuild a vintage dual point Mallory

7. A modern Mallory Single points with a red cap

8. FS distributor. The benefits of electronic ignition and centrifugal advance in one package.

I plan to add a high compression head also at some point if that affects your opinion.

Thanks in advance
 
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I'd go with #2 (just 'cause that's what I did). I have the NuRex cintrifugal advance, but haven't put it in yet. My friend down the street has this same set-up with the NuRex unit in his 29 Tudor and loves it.
 
There are several other options you didn't mention. Was that because of cost?
RotoFaze.
Jacobs.
MSD.
Accel.
 
I have both FS ignitions. I had to have the Zipper modified to a lower advance, and it works well. I also have the manual advance and it also works well. I always carry a spare distributer incase the module goes bad. (it hasn't in 4 years) You must be sure to hit the starter as soon as you turn on the key so you don't burn out the module. So far this has not been a problem. I would not have any other.
 
Pete said:
There are several other options you didn't mention. Was that because of cost?
RotoFaze.
Jacobs.
MSD.
Accel.
Click to expand...

Yes cost is a factor. If it wasn't I would probably call Joe Hunt and have him build me one:). I don't know Jacobs or RotoFaze. could you enlighten me?
Also looks is a factor. That's why the FS unit and the modern Mallory are at the bottom of the list
 
I thought I posted this reply, but it never showed up...

I've been into British cars for a while and have had excellent luck installing the MSD (CD) kit. It saves the points...they never burn out. It has incresed the driveability and accelleration in the 4 cars I have installed it on.

Wouldn't his work on a Model A? You's probably want to hide or disguise the bright red module.
:cool:
 
bill44 said:
. I always carry a spare distributer incase the module goes bad. (it hasn't in 4 years) You must be sure to hit the starter as soon as you turn on the key so you don't burn out the module. So far this has not been a problem. .
Click to expand...

This is what scares me about electronic ingition
 
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What do you define as upgrade?

Do you want a car that runs 65 MPH, gets in the low 20's for MPG and is dependable for the next 4 or 5 decades with minimal maintenance?

That is what my brothers car has for a history. Stock head, used B cam, used points, burnout proof condenser, and a wire stolen from a dist on an engine out behind a garage (he was a 15 year old with no morals!). Other then the burn out proof condenser it is untouched from the day he rebuilt it.

Going to electronic stuff may make you immune from loose parts in the distributor giving you uneven dwell but it opens you up to voltage sensitivities. In other words, the electronic system will fix a worn distributor system or poor parts.
The downsides.. A marginal battery means a tow home. Poor connections are going to be a problem.

Paying attention to details and keeping original is your most reliable and robust system.

Going too high in compression you will need to push the ignition system harder and electronics help.

As far as better pep and power. Never experienced a switch to eletronics so I do not know. I do know my brother has had people complain he runs to fast and I had the same problem when driving my crappy looking 30 fordor. Keep in mind the people complaining were driving in cars newer then 1950.

Most of you guys baby your A's too much and think you need modern to move along. Rebuild em right back to factory and thrash the heck out of them for the next 50 years.
Remember the pedal on the right makes them go, do not be afraid to press it! Run em hard and put em away wet. They love that kind of abuse.
 
Tiny said:
Yes cost is a factor. If it wasn't I would probably call Joe Hunt and have him build me one:). I don't know Jacobs or RotoFaze. could you enlighten me?
Also looks is a factor. That's why the FS unit and the modern Mallory are at the bottom of the list
Click to expand...

On any of those names, your search engine will turn up their websites.
 
Well, no, it really does not have to fiddled with and upgraded, but lots of folks like to fiddle with it and upgrade it anyway, but that's a personal problem, not a mechanical problem. The stock ignition is adequate for what it does and will work fine with an HC head too, although you will learn to use the advance lever better. The HC head is less forgiving, but the stock ignition can handle it. I actually got to like using and learning the manual advance at different settings with an HC head. (Different story if you want to go for high performance stuff with cams, carbs, porting, etc. See Jim Brierely's book if you are going that route.)
FWIW, when I started fiddling and upgrading, and started down the performance road, I put in the electronic and auto advance FS ignition and it works fine. And I get to keep fiddling with and upgrading the advance curve. Sort of like using the advance lever, but more complicated to do and get right.
 
I am not looking for a top speed per se. What I am looking more is a little more umph. Ultimately I'd like too not totally dread hills. I wish I could build an all out banger motor but right now I would just a bit more seat of the pants feel. I think I'm leaning mostly at a B distributor, hot coil and Bill Stipe distributor cam with the extra dwell built in. I'm not unhappy with the stock setup I have. I rebuilt it myself and it performs well. I just what more. I can't help but think a rework of the ignition will be a good place to start.
 
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Tiny said:
I am not looking for a top speed per se. What I am looking more is a little more umph. . . I can't help but think a rework of the ignition will be a good place to start.
Click to expand...

I think you're starting in the wrong place. The only seat-of-the-pants feeling a hot ignition system will give is a lighter wallet. With everything else stock, the biggest HP gain will be from a higher compression head. The Snyder 6.0 comp head will give you that uphill boost and run fine with a stock Kettering (points) ignition system. In the 60's even hot 400 HP V8's with 10:1 compression ran on points ignition systems with standard coils.

Unless you're looking to cross that magic 1 horsepower per cubic inch threshold or exceed 5000 rpm or trying to run an engine with a damp & wet ignition, some of the over-the-top systems mentioned achieve little more than bragging rights.
 
Honda City electronic ignition 30 bucks at the wreckers



A few minutes in the lathe



Turned up a jack shaft and away we went

 
Thank you Mike X2.

The one thing that always makes me wonder in circumstances like this is; ...is the original system truly under-performing? New correctly gapped spark plugs will tell a lot after a 5-mile drive. Rebuilding the distributor may not do a thing if the coil is weak or the polarity reversed. The same might be said if the timing is off, and/or if the carburetor is not performing correctly. If the camshaft is worn under specs, then naturally the entire engine will be down on power and again, switching to an aftermarket distributor will not do anything except make your wallet thinner IMHO.
 
Going through the mountains of PA in my brothers 31 coupe we were passing modern cars on the uphill side.

That was a stock engine with a used B cam.

I was very serious with my comments earlier. A worn out A a was thrashed daily by kids into the 60's. A properly rebuilt A can take quite a bit hard driving and live a very long life. They were not designed to be babied.

A thrown together out of balanced engine will never have the power that it should have.
 
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