Ignition locking pin/switch pull down

B

Boxhead

Senior Member
Hi all,

Wondering what re best way is to pull the ignition module is, i found a thread that says to drill out the pin to remove the keylock. but how do i get the switch out? Do i need to pull out the softer section on the end?

any help appreciated
 

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not sure the year of yours, but on most, inside the box where the ignition wires mount, is a pin that sticks up to activate the ignition switch. i take a vise grip with good teeth on the end, clamp it on the pin, and tap with a hammer. once the pin is out, the cylinder will slide out the end
 
Boxhead said:
Hi all,

Wondering what re best way is to pull the ignition module is, i found a thread that says to drill out the pin to remove the keylock. but how do i get the switch out? Do i need to pull out the softer section on the end?

any help appreciated
Click to expand...

Boxhead:

Do not pull the switch pin off the toggle ring on your model ( that is required
on the earlier models where the switch pin is staked into the lock bolt) .

After removing the key cylinder--- move the lock bolt assembly to the

passenger side to clear the chrome cap past the drop--the prise the cap off

with two small screw drivers --it's pressed on splined on lock bolt.

Then move the lock bolt assembly to driver side into drop mask bore

to clear the toggle ring --lift the toggle ring assembly out whole --with

thumbpad post and switch pin attached as made.

Trick is to remove the thumbpad from it's splined post to keep from
bending /trashing the on/off soft plate.

There are threads on this if you search and read enough.

Maybe I or others can find .

Wanted to warn about messing with the toggle ring assembly-!

Fun old Fords!!

Gene Tulsa
 
Sorry for the late reply guys, been a busy week. Thank you for the tips guys, and you Gene for the step by step guide. I will give this a go tommorrow.

Cheers

Corey
 
Boxhead;

This 41 drop is passenger car. Are you trying to get parts for your 1.5 t truck drop?

Lube the lock cylinder well & tap wiggle in & out on cyl face & angled forward

in the pocket where the pin was --patience --keep after it to save the parts.

Is the toggle lever locked? The key broken off? Grind a hacksaw blade from

top down to teeth tapered to a sliver--teeth angled out --try to pull key.

There is another pin on the back side (guide pin--prevents lock bolt from rotating)

to drill out & pull in order to move the lock bolt into mask bore -- to clear toggle

ring assembly.

The truck is looking great! Great work!

Gene Tulsa
 
G32 said:
Boxhead;

This 41 drop is passenger car. Are you trying to get parts for your 1.5 t truck drop?

Lube the lock cylinder well & tap wiggle in & out on cyl face & angled forward

in the pocket where the pin was --patience --keep after it to save the parts.

Is the toggle lever locked? The key broken off? Grind a hacksaw blade from

top down to teeth tapered to a sliver--teeth angled out --try to pull key.

There is another pin on the back side (guide pin--prevents lock bolt from rotating)

to drill out & pull in order to move the lock bolt into mask bore -- to clear toggle

ring assembly.

The truck is looking great! Great work!

Gene Tulsa
Click to expand...

Hi Gene,

Are you saying the module i have is from a car, if so it was in the truck when i recieved the truck so maybe somone changed it. I will need to look at what a truck one looks like if this is the case?

Cheers

Corey
 
What you have pictured is from a 41-47 pass car.The "U" notch is for the shift lever.Trucks were floor shift.
 
Late 30s Truck Column Drop

Boxhead;

Hope this works ! I think 40 & 41 may be same or similar.

Gene Tulsa
 

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Hey guys.

Little confused, looked at my other trucks column and it has the same ignition module. I wonder if in Australia they used these?
On the plus side i was able to get it apart, although i couldnt save the barrel as it was stuck in there good.

Any ideas where to get a new key barrel?


Cheers

Corey
 

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Hey Guys, just a friendly FYI.......when asking for information, help, etc., on these global forums, it's best to have your approximate location listed in your avatar. Things were built differently on these early Fords in different areas of the world, so you're going to get lots of confusing, misleading and incorrect information until folks know about where you are located :)
 
Last edited:
Boxhead said:
Hey guys.

Little confused, looked at my other trucks column and it has the same ignition module. I wonder if in Australia they used these?
On the plus side i was able to get it apart, although i couldnt save the barrel as it was stuck in there good.

Any ideas where to get a new key barrel?


Cheers





Corey
Click to expand...
Here is one on EBAY.Many vendors have the new repo's also and a bit cheaper.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-S...872109?hash=item5d7bf8f66d:g:E5gAAOSwD31atUCR
 
deuce lover said:
40-41 truck is different.Not as deep a drop and no slotted adjustable tabs.
Click to expand...

Guys;

USA green book shows different drop for "122" wheelbase & 'non' "122"'
meaning to me longer -- "134" , "158" ."194" drops.

This is the same for these years:

38-39

40-47

I don't have the Fast moving Parts book re Canada FMC or
Australian parts book.

What are differences in right hand drive steer assembly?

Thanks Gene Tulsa
 
Hey guys,

Thanks for the link, wow not cheap!! I have updated to show I live in Australia for future reference as I agree this will help when answering questions ( who knows I may be able to answer someone else's questions one day! Haha)

I am not sure of 'all the differences Gene between left vs right, imagine just the linkages as it seems as though the chassis could be used for either.

Cheers

Corey

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 
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