ignition lock

there's a few differences, not the same to 100% with my wiring..

Again, please read the REFERRING URL I posted. It (article) describes the possible misprint within the factory released diagram.

Below are two crops of the diagram to hopefully help you.

Now what you are saying is that when you turn the IGN off, the engine stays running? The STARTER does not hang, correct?
 

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Even though it's new,that doesn't necessarily mean that it's not defective.Most of the replacement electrical parts for sale today are very poor quality and are often bad right out of the box.The problem you're having is almost certainly a defective starter relay.
 
56 yblock, now I'm confused...
What is continuing to run with the ignition key switch turned off?

The engine? or the starter?
 
I would remove all the wires from the ign. terminal on the switch and check for the terminal on the switch to be hot with the key in the "off" position. If the terminal is hot, you have a switch problem. If not, you are getting back feed from somewhere that is powering your ignition. If there are other wires on the same terminal, check to see if any of those are hot with the ignition off.
 
ok guys thanks for the answers
i'll change the complete ignition switch
if it's not ok i'll change the starter relay too
 
Changing parts looking for a problem isn't cost effective if you have a way to diagnose where the problem is. If you have a backfeed because of a wiring mistake, changing parts won't fix it. Take all wires off the ignition terminal and see if it has voltage on it.

Then check the two small terminals on the starter relay for voltage with the key off.

Get back with the results and we can go from there.
 
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i agree
i have this car since about one year ago, i've run a lot with her
she always worked good, i dont think she have wiring problem
but she has original parts, and the old owner didn't take care the car
and now i have all to check
 
Diagram #1. Starter solenoid wiring...
but there are a few exceptions based on where the battery, starter solenoid and starter are mounted in relation to each other.

When I first looked under the hood of a '55/'57 T-Bird I noticed the 'Battery' and 'Starter' cables are connected to the opposite terminals. (diagram #2)
Some other vehicles may be connected this way also. It makes no difference in the operation of the solenoid. The 'S' and 'I' wires however, must be connected correctly.

Connecting battery or ignition switch power to the 'S' terminal should energize the solenoid with a quick solid click, and it should release the same way. When energized the solenoid should supply 12 volts on the Starter and Ignition terminals. When not energized the solenoid will only have power on the 'Battery' terminal.

just FYI: Original 6 volt positive ground '55 Fords use a different style starter solenoid with only 3 terminals. (image #3)
.
 

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Diagram #1. Starter solenoid wiring... but there are a few exceptions based on where the battery, starter solenoid and starter are mounted in relation to each other.

When I first looked under the hood of a '55/'57 T-Bird I noticed the 'Battery' and 'Starter' cables are connected to the opposite terminals. (diagram #2)

Some other vehicles may be connected this way also. It makes no difference in the operation of the solenoid. The 'S' and 'I' wires however, must be connected correctly.

Connecting battery or ignition switch power to the 'S' terminal should energize the solenoid with a quick solid click, and it should release the same way. When energized the solenoid should supply 12 volts on the Starter and Ignition terminals. When not energized the solenoid will only have power on the 'Battery' terminal.

... :confused: ... scratch...scratch...scratch...

:eek:

MY NEWLY LEARNED FACTOID OF THE DAY!

I never realized that. The BAT on a FORD is on the PASS side and the BIRD BAT is on the driver's side so the BAT/STARTER CABLES can be used on either terminal.... :D

just FYI: Original 6 volt negative ground '55 Fords use a different style starter solenoid with only 3 terminals. (image #3)
What you are showing is an aftermarket, correct?

345781


The FORD PN for a 6V Solenoid is B5A 11450-A and a 12V Solenoid is B6A 11450-A if looking for NOS.

THANX FOR THE TUTORIAL!
 
MY NEWLY LEARNED FACTOID OF THE DAY!
I never realized that. The BAT on a FORD is on the PASS side and the BIRD BAT is on the driver's side so the BAT/STARTER CABLES can be used on either terminal....

DING DING DING! That is right, you win! :D

But I must have had my wife's glasses on while typing...
The oem 6v Fords were Positive ground, not negative ground.

What you are showing is an aftermarket, correct?
(6 volt starter solenoid)
Not sure, I haven't seen enough of them.

.
 
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:eek:

MY NEWLY LEARNED FACTOID OF THE DAY!

I never realized that. The BAT on a FORD is on the PASS side and the BIRD BAT is on the driver's side so the BAT/STARTER CABLES can be used on either terminal.... :D

What you are showing is an aftermarket, correct?

345781


The FORD PN for a 6V Solenoid is B5A 11450-A and a 12V Solenoid is B6A 11450-A if looking for NOS.

THANX FOR THE TUTORIAL!

DING DING DING! That is right, you win! :D

But I must have had my wife's glasses on while typing...
The oem 6v Fords were Positive ground, not negative ground.

(6 volt starter solenoid)

Not sure, I haven't seen enough of them.

Below is a photo of a Service Replacement-
 

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ok guys,i'll take a pic of my starter relay wiring later
and i'll post here
If the starter is operating correctly the wiring on the starter relay / solenoid is Ok. If the 'S' and 'I' wires are reversed on their terminals the solenoid & starter may try to engage with the ignition key switch in the 'Run' position, but not in the 'Start' position.
The wire on the 'S' terminal is usually Red with a blue stripe. The wire on the 'I' terminal will be dark Brown, or maybe black.
.
 
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dmsfrr
when i connect the battery, the lights oil/gen are already 'on' it's the first problem
the second problem it's when the engine run i turn the key on position 'off' it don't stop
i think my ignition cylinder is dead !!
 
Why don't you just remove the ignition wire from the switch and reconnect the battery? If the oil/gen light come on it isn't the switch causing your problem. .
 
i'll try with the new parts ( switch relay and complete ignition switch )
with the same wiring.
it was good before to change my starter drive
 
dmsfrr
when i connect the battery, the lights oil/gen are already 'on' it's the first problem
the second problem it's when the engine run i turn the key on position 'off' it don't stop
i think my ignition cylinder is dead !!
I agree it's most likely the ignition switch. After the other wires are labeled and removed from the switch and only the yellow Battery wire temporarily connected... you can hook a test light one at a time to each terminal to confirm that they either do or don't operate correctly... Accessory, Run/ignition and Start.
 
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