Ignition Distributor Upgrade

R

Ratchet

Junior Member
I'm looking at upgrading the ignition system on my 1926 model T, is there a distributor setup that works well and parts are easily obtained?

The other question that I have if you remove the ignition timer and lift the camshaft how much up and down play is considered excessive?

Thanks

James
 
If you have up and down motion in the camshaft, that is not good. The cam runs in babbit bearings and should not have any noticeable up and down play.
 
Some folks used the Bosch type back in the day. Autolite distributors used in early jeeps have also been used for convertions. Texas T parts (Bird Haven) has a modern conversion set up.

J Franklin has a point. The four trembler coils with the timer and the flywheel magneto really work very well for the old motor as long as all the parts are good and regular service is performed. This is one of the reasons the model T stuck around so long. It was reliable.

Cam bearings are complicated but not necessarily hard to replace. It would not be doable without disassembly the engine to get at them. Here is a link that illustrates the complexity of cam bearing replacement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzaeB1t9U5o&list=PLYG_lIhIwKyLG8WQm4tGmKK1nA0Yctp6G&index=12
 
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This 1926 Ford Model T has been the family since it was purchased it was my grandfathers, pasted on to my uncle and now me. I have no idea whats been done to the car so I guess I have some work ahead of me. I did manage to get it running for the first time in 53 years but boy is it fussy to start that why I was think of a distributor.

Thanks for your input gentleman!
 
The timer is just a low tension way to send the signal for the trembler coils to fire. Trembler coils sometimes need cleaning and adjustment but will give good service for a long time. They can be overhauled. The magnets that form the magneto on the flywheel can lose some residual magnetism over long periods of time but can be recharged to normal gauss levels. If a model T engine will run on all four cylinders then that is telling a good story. The old spark plugs can get fowled but that will become apparent if inspected visually. Condition and color of a spark plug will tell a person a lot. most T owners keep a clean and serviceable plug or two around so that they can be replaced to test for ignition problems on the one cylinder that may be suspect. A person has to be careful when cleaning model T plugs. A common procedure should be followed to clean them without damaging them.

Carburetion can also be suspect if the mixture is too rich or too lean. A lot of starting problems can be fuel system related. Some of the late model Ts have vaporizers in that 1926/27 time frame. There were several types of vaporizers used by Ford and some are known to be problematic during cold starting. Some folks convert them back to the earlier carburetor designs due to problems but some just replace with the more reliable of the systems available.
 
Funny you should mention vaporizer issues, today I disassembled the vaporizer and found
the metal plate with a hole rusted through it. I fabricated a new plate assembly and reassembled, the engine starts much better. I think I am going to do a compression test tomorrow.
 
Well the "T" is running but not well, so I did a compression test found cylinders 1,2 & 4 compression below 15psi so I removed the intake/ exhaust manifold and did a cylinder leak down test which revealed leaking exhaust valves. I remove the cylinder head and found badly worn guides, valves and recessed exhaust seats.
 
James your 26 is pretty close to what I had to start with and get it back on the road. I had no compression on cylinder one, stuck exhaust valve the other three where in the mid 50's.

My valve guides were with in spec and was able to get standard valves and adjustable push rods. My cam was toast and ordered a stipe 280. I had my pan inspection cover off so replacing the push rods and cam bearings was easy.

Nu-way makes a nice valve seat resurface tool, I had posted a thread on that on here. I have several Souix valve grinding machines and able to clean up the new valves to the size I needed.

The hole in the vaporizer plate is common, I went with an NH and the vaporizer is on the wall as a conversation piece. If you try and remove the exhaust pipe nut from the manifold you will probably break it (manifold) and/or the threads will usually be worn and washed out.

I love the sound of coils and for me the timer works well. Good luck and let us know how you make out. Keeping a T in the family for that long is special indeed.

Starting my T needed lots of new wiring and you can not have to many redundant grounds, frame/engine/body ect. Optima with 800 CCA turns it over nicely providing the bands are adjusted correctly....that is another chapter my friend.
 
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Well my Model T is going to get some TLC most of the parts needed should be here tomorrow except for a Stipe 280 cam which no one has at the moment. The wiring in my vehicle needs to be replaced the insulation is brittle so I don't want to touch it I afraid insulation will break and fall off. I got lucky with the exhaust flange nut since the exhaust pipe flange broke off and was wired in place so I was able heat and free the nut up. I cut the remaining flange off the exhaust pipe, installed the nut on the pipe and made a new flange. I will be applying lots of antisieze during assembly.

The fun conitnues!
 
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