Ignition Coil

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Brian54

Member
I would like to replace my standard ignition coil ( came with my 54 Ford some time ago ) The number is 1105 and I can't seem to locate one; maybe the number has changed or it does not exist anymore . It has a resistor built in and I would like to keep this feature . Any suggestions would be appreciated .Oh it is 12 volt .
 

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I would favor an Echlin 3-Ohm primary type coil. I think the IC27 has screw type terminals. Some folks like the Bosch Blue Coil and others like the Pertronix 3.0-Ohm flame thrower.
 
You have a 1954 FORD with a POINTS STYLE DIST on a 12V SYSTEM?

In this instance you need a coil that uses an EXTERNAL BALLAST RESISTOR on the VOLT SUPPLY WIRE TO THE DIST/COIL. Both DIST and COIL required the reduced VOLT so as to not burn the points set.

What is wrong with your present coil?

COIL PRIMARY RESISTANCE is referring to the primary coil winding in the coil.
 
I failed to mention that there has been a Pertronix conversion and therefore the points have been eliminated . The current coil is blue in color and the number 1105 is visible (I assumed it to be a Standard ).It also states that no external ballast resistor is needed. I would like to replace it due to the fact that I have no idea of the age and I rather not pay for a flatbed .
 
I failed to mention that there has been a Pertronix conversion and therefore the points have been eliminated
Click to expand...

:rolleyes: ... unh-hunh ...

Now before we go any further ...

You have a 1954 FORD ... what engine? ... what DIST? ...

Is it a PERTRONIX DIST or an IGNITOR in what DIST? Is it a LOAD-O-MATIC or DUAL ADVANCE (if the engine is a FYB)?

If IGNITOR, what SERIES I, II OR III?

PERTRONIX most likely suggested a matching coil, did you keep the instruction sheet?

CLICK HERE - http://www.pertronix.com.au/flame-thrower_coil_2.html
 
The 54 has the original motor , original distributor and a Series 1 Ignitor . The link that Kultulz has provided is very valuable and it seems like a number 40011 might be the answer .
 
Do me a big favor and call PERTRONIX TECHLINE and explain to them what you are planning. It would make me feel a lot more comfortable.

When you mounted your PERTRONIX I, did you by-pass the ballast resistor?

- https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-40011-flame-thrower-coil-40-000-volt-1-5-ohm-black

- https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/40011.pdf

PERTRONIX is good stuff (IMO) but they have problem(s) with cataloging and instructions. It is also (IMO) best to choose one matched system for best performance unless advanced with how to mix and match for certain applications.

So you have the original 1954 239CI V8 LOAD-O-MATIC DIST that came on the car with a matching points style rated coil presently (w/12V SYSTEM upgrade) and you are wanting to jack-up the coil?

Have you changed the CARB from OEM INSTALL?
 
If you have a Pertronix, get the correct Pertronix coil.

I am a firm believer that you should use compatible parts from the same manufacturer if at all possible.


If you have a Pertronix I, it is supposed to have a resistor. Talk with the Pertronix people.




Brian54 said:
I failed to mention that there has been a Pertronix conversion and therefore the points have been eliminated . The current coil is blue in color and the number 1105 is visible (I assumed it to be a Standard ).It also states that no external ballast resistor is needed. I would like to replace it due to the fact that I have no idea of the age and I rather not pay for a flatbed .
Click to expand...
 
After reading the excellent feedback , I will definitely call Pertronix and ask for their recommendation. Thanks to all that responded .
 
OK ...

I have been ciphering this info and recommendations and experiences are all over the place (incl instruction info).

THANX to my 3rd GRADE EDUMACATION LEVEL (two tours spent), it pans out as follows -

IF one installs an IGNITOR I (and I don't understand why one would with the IGN II available) (or they just want a more reliable system that points cannot provide and possibly save $$$ - again, IMO), it is to be installed downwind of the original resistor (6-9V) (if so equipped) as used on the car (points- ballast resistor or wire resistor) and using the original points type coil) UNLESS one also installs the proper low resistance coil (FLAMETHROWER) along with the IGN 1 module.

If the module sees 12V with the points rated coil the resultant excessive heat produced by the coil will most likely take out the module and/or coil at some point.

Very simple reason is that the IGN I can act either as a mechanical points replacement and the stock coil will still produce the same output voltage or it can be used to jack-up the system with the correct coil and both connected to a 12V source.

OK PAUL your counter argument ... ;)
 
Brian54 said:
. . . I would like to replace it due to the fact that I have no idea of the age and I rather not pay for a flatbed .
Click to expand...
If the coil isn't compatible with the ignition module that's a reason to replace it. Also if it isn't measuring or performing up to needed specs.

Flatbed rides can be expensive but there's no guaranty that new replacement parts are any better than the old originals you already have. These days most new replacement parts are made off-shore and some are worth less than the box they come in.
 
dmsfrr said:
Flatbed rides can be expensive but there's no guaranty that new replacement parts are any better than the old originals you already have. These days most new replacement parts are made off-shore and some are worth less than the box they come in.
Click to expand...

I agree. If it's working don't mess with it. If you are going to drive it far from home maybe fab up a kit for a replacement with all the parts you might need. I did that for my duelly when I took my last trip to AK. Spare starter, alternator, fuel pump, hyd clutch linkage and more of things I figured would be hard to find on the Alaska Hwy. Never had to use one part. Only problem was a nail in a tire about 10 miles from a tire repair shop.
 
FYI, they don't put anything other than a 3-Ohm primary coil winding in a coil used for 12-volt systems. I must read this two or three time a week at least. They just increase the resistance of the coil by adding more turns of wire. A wire wound resistor is just a coil of wire inside an insulated case. The more resistance, the more heat generated. A 3-ohm primary type coil has a modern epoxy insulation that can take the heat. In the early Ford era, they had tar in the coils as an insulator and it would melt and sometimes leak if it got too hot so they put an external ballast resistor to keep the coil cooler and more efficient. An external ballast is there to protect the coil by reducing the current draw and therefore the voltage that the coil can be exposed to from the electrical system.
 
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