Ignition Cable Installation Question

sconnors

sconnors

Well-known member
Ordered a new ignition cable and I received it, but when I go to install it, I can get it through the clamp on the he but then the threads won't line up with the bottom of the distribution.
How imperative is it that this cable go through that clamp? Also, I was hesitant to actually remove the clamp as some threads on here said not to unless you drain the radiator?
Also, I've read the cable should only be hand tight.
Any input from all you guys with experience would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Scott
 
No clamp really needed! Remove head nut remove clamp retorque nut! Hand tight cable is good! If you want drain rad a bit but not necessary..
 

Attachments

  • Model A 3.jpg
    Model A 3.jpg
    190 KB · Views: 6
  • papa Jerry.jpg
    papa Jerry.jpg
    29.6 KB · Views: 9
The reason for the clamp was to deter theft. The cable could not be removed without removing the clamp. There was a special cable made up by thieves that could be used instead of the proper cable. The special cable could be used to bypass the ignition switch and run the engine. In some states it was illegal to own that special cable.

Today theft of a Model A is not the problem it was in 1930 so the clamp is not all that important.
 
I would strongly suggest draining the coolant if you plan on removing the clamp. Loosening even one head nut can cause the coolant to seep between the gasket and the head/block surface.
 
Will N said:
I would strongly suggest draining the coolant if you plan on removing the clamp. Loosening even one head nut can cause the coolant to seep between the gasket and the head/block surface.
Click to expand...

I third this...

I cut and modified the clamp to clamp from the top of the stud - its a C shape and doesn't encircle the cable completely it juts holds it down in place. I then used a thin jam nut to hold it in place. This way I can clamp my ignition cable to the head and remove it to torque the head or remove my distributor without loosening the head nut.
 
I didn't drain anything, messed around with the clamp and cable, got it sorted out...then tightened it all up...but forgot to hit it with a torque wrench.

The car became a Steamer. I thought I'd ruined the head-gasket but simply retorquing the offending head nut (all the rest too) stopped the steam and she's back to running perfectly now.

I doubt I'll drain the coolant if I have to revisit the clamp...but I like the montanafordman's suggestion of moving it to the top of the stud and using a jam nut.

Another tick on my "to do" list!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top