ignition bucks on starting

old1928fordguy

old1928fordguy

Senior Member
Model A engine.6.0 high comp head.FSI electronic ignition.Crank the engine with the swith off no problem.Turn on switch while cranking and it starts and runs great.Turn on the switch then crank it bucks back then starts.Manual spark advanced timed correctly as it runs great and ticks them off with that nice Model A sound on retard and smooths out great on advance.Why does it buck on starting?I have retarded the timing as it acts like its too advanced but it still bucks back.I have been at this a long time and never had this problem.Thanks Phil
 
I had a simular situation with timing, always seemed advanced. While in Placerville, CA on an outing, Les Andrews and I worked on this timing problem for 2 hours. Went through all the proceedures several times.

We finally found it !!!!!!! I had purchased a new B distributor cam several years ago and used it in the distributor on my 30 Coupe. The cutout on the cam for the rotor had been machined in the wrong position on the cam. Replaced the B cam with an old stock A cam and the problem was solved.

Ron
 
Worn dizzy shaft?

Cam with a higher lobe/s other than number 1 lobe which you timed it on, causing 2, 3 or 4 to be advanced when #1 is OK?

Maybe you could carefully paint on 2 lines on the crank pulley 180 degrees apart and a line on timing case for strobing all 4 cylinders separately to see if any are suspect when running.
 
Check the points rubbing block. maybe loose. the two little rivets that hold the rubbing block on the arm will get lose and as the cam turns it closes the points more than the original setting. even tho you set at .020 etc they change. Took me for ever to find the problem. Just a thought.!
 
Sounds like timing to me, much the same as trying to start a Model A with the spark handle pulled down. Check to see if you have a "B" timing gear cover on the engine. The boss for the timing pin will be oval shaped instead of round. If that is the case your timing is off. Best to remove #1 spark plug, shine a light in there and you can see when the piston is at TDC and then set your timing.

Tom Endy
 
The electronic ignition Has a modern cap. I had stranded copper core wires. I changed them to the new graphite high performance type and no more bucking problem.So dont use steel core or copper core wires with your electronic ignition they can radom trigger the ignition.Phil
 
old1928fordguy,

So, the problem was caused by EMI (Electrical Magnetic Interference) from the spark wires interfering with the operation of the electrical ignition system.

Soooooo, maybe the simple original Model A system should be used ????

Marc
 
Sooooo you want to race.My ignition works just fine now. You can use what you like. I believe you are the one who had a problem getting up to highway speed not long ago.Lets leave Colorado today and see who gets to Boston with the fewest problems . Thanks for your input !!!!
 
Timing light?

Phil,

did you also have problems with an inductive timing light working properly when you had copper wires? My timing light is all over the place and I do have Pertronix and copper wires.
Thanks for the heads up!
Peace,
Phred
 
Re: Timing light?

Phred said:
Phil,

did you also have problems with an inductive timing light working properly when you had copper wires? My timing light is all over the place and I do have Pertronix and copper wires.
Thanks for the heads up!
Peace,
Phred
Click to expand...

When I use my scope I have to put a piece of tubing over the copper strap, then the scope works great. If the inductive pickup touches the copper strap the scope is all messed up, so I'd try the same thing with an inductive timing light.
 
I run a Pertronix with the original copper straps - no problem. And I use an inductive timing light without plastic tube - no problem.

Guess I'm just lucky.

Only pointing this out because it doesn't seem there is a clear case that interference is going to occur with the breakerless ignition.
 
Here is what Mallory says ... cut and pasted from Mallory's instruction sheet titled:


Sorry did not mean to shout ... (I reduced size of font that I pasted from website)

UNILITE
® ELECTRONIC BREAKERLESS CONVERSION KIT
FOR MALLORY POINT DISTRIBUTORS​

Quote:​


To prevent false triggering and possible​
premature ignition failure, you must use
suppression type (carbon core, spiral
core, or radio suppression core) spark
plug wire.

DO NOT USE SOLID CORE (COPPER​
CORE OR STAINLESS STEEL CORE)
SPARK PLUG WIRE WITH ANY
ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM.
 
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We should be careful not to confuse 'electronic ignition' with 'breakerless ignition'. Sounds like there could be some confusion.

Electronic is very picky and would require specific wires.
 
Breakerless simply replaces your points with a Hall Effect device. There is no external module, it doesn't condition the spark, and usually runs well under $100.

Electronic ignition has a module that conditions the spark, jacks the voltage way up, normally causes the plug to fire many times each cycle to ensure more complete burning of the gas charge. It also gets rid of the points. Costs typically in the $300- $400 range.
 
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