Ign Switch bypass

[MrBruce]

I bought this bypass tool years ago in Elk Grove, Ill at Antique Model A parts. I've used it and it really is so simple, but have never seen anyone sell it since. I just used it this past week and realized how nice and simple it works and takes only a minute to put on and get back on the road if your switch isn't working. Has anyone seen it offered?

 

[Jim/GA]

Bratton's sells one. Snyder's sells one. Others might.

The hardest part is you have to remove the ignition cable from the base of the distributor before you can use any of these. Not that easy.

 

[MrBruce]

Jim, that's what I am talking about. This one just snaps over the distributor and you clip the wire to the coil and your on your way. All the other one's you have to unscrew the ignition cable. I just used it again this week for a switch that was bad. I can't believe no one is still making it. It's really simple, and I might try to make some. The thin metal has a tight spring to it and the end goes into the condenser hole and then you just snap it around the other side of the distributor. So much quicker and easier than all the rest on the market.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I haven't seen that one before, but I can see how it is quick and easy to plug it into the hole for the condenser screw. This is great for an open switch circuit, but won't work on a shorted ignition circuit unless the old cable is unscrewed from the distributor.

 

[Jim/GA]

A stock pop-out ignition switch is designed to ground out the points when the switch is OFF, to prevent one from hot wiring the car. So the little bypass tool that is shown in post #1 will not work with a failed original pop-out switch with the cable still connected, if the switch is correctly grounding the points out.

 

[larrys40]

A stock pop-out ignition switch is designed to ground out the points when the switch is OFF, to prevent one from hot wiring the car. So the little bypass tool that is shown in post #1 will not work with a failed original pop-out switch with the cable still connected, if the switch is correctly grounding the points out.

As Jim said they won't work with a Popout if the points are grounded through the Popoit head if it is original . The one pictured was made by a fellow named Frank Reitz who had Fritz specialties back in the '80's near me in St. Louis . He sold A parts and manufactured some including those.

Larry Shepard