idle adjusting needles

56yblock

56yblock

Senior Member
hello guys , i have a problem with my carburetor 2110 ECC holley 2 barrels automatic choke manual transmission , i've rebuild it and i can't to adjusting the idle adjusting needles, what does the best procedure for that? thanks for help me,
 
I'm not expert for sure, but I've read that the power valve will cause that problem. There is a problem with the power valve gasket and mating surfaces not matching with some kits.
 
I also agree that it sounds like the power valve is leaking either by the round gasket seal, or through the diaphragm. There have been issues with the style of power valves in some kits causing them to leak around the gasket as 40cpe mentioned. This would allow fuel to be pulled into the manifold below the carburetor, and would explain why it still idles with the idle needles seated.

Sal
 
BTW, when adjusting, don't screw the needles in too far and too tight. It will ruin them.

Screwing them in will make the car run leaner. On my car, if they're too lean the engine will backfire. It seems correct that there is fuel coming from another source if needles in all the way doesn't kill the engine or cause it to backfire at speed.


I presume you cleaned everything real good when you rebuilt the carb? As I recall, most rebuild kits come with a power valve. It seems to me that when these old carbs have a conspicuous issue, taking the whole thing apart and cleaning everything real well is usually the best place to start, especially when a rebuild kit has replaced most of the essential parts. It's the CHEAPEST place to start, anyway. Could be some debris came dislodged and caused a problem. Also possible there was an incorrect reassembly procedure.
 
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I've had problems with power valves that come in the rebuild kits. And, their gaskets suck too. In the last couple of years I have special ordered power valves from places that will sell individual parts for carburators.
I am using a Ford EBU carb and have a couple spare EBU's and a Holley 2100. These are similar to your Holley 2110 and use the same rebuild kit offered today.
BTW, the Holley 2110 is an ECG not ECC
Here are some of the vendors I have used in the past:
Ken Isidor (Kens Carburators), Stratford, Connecticut; 1-203-375-9340
Mikes carburetor parts (not sure if he still offers parts for pre 1957 carbs)
Dicks Hot rod carbs, Tomball, Texas.
Sal Cicala (often participates in these forums) has always done super quality work for me.
I have been getting my gasket sets from Dicks Hot Rod carbs instead of Daytona parts, because Dicks power valves are better than the ones from Daytona, BUT his kits only come with the base gasket for the Holley 2110 (which is what you want).
Last time I ordered from Dicks, I had him send me THREE power valves with gaskets. I haven't had any trouble with the first one yet and it is over a year old.
 
today i've cleaned the sparks plugs again and check the complete ignition, the car starts and runs better, but i can just adjust only one screw, i've removed the carburator and cleaned again and all is correct...
 
When you took the carb apart again, was there fuel in the round pocket in the base below the power valve ? If so you have an issue with the power valve round gasket not sealing, or a bad diaphragm in the power valve.

Sal
 
Here's what I do with my EBU carbs. PRIOR TO installing a carb back on the car after I have done a rebuild, I always set the carb on an open tuna fish can, on a level table. I fill the float bowl with enough gas just to fill the bottom of the float bowl. This can be done with the carb completely assembled by getting another tuna can, bending a spout in it, pouring some gasoline in the can, then use it to pour gasoline carefully down the little air bleed tube sticking up in the carb throat. That tube opens into the float chamber. Now, let it sit overnight. Next day, come out and see if the tuna can that the carb is sitting on has gas in it. If it does, you are leaking gas. Take the valve body off the bottom of the carb. If the power valve vacuum chamber in the valve body is wet, your power valve gasket leaks. Maybe wrong gasket. Maybe lousy gasket material. Maybe the mounting surface of the power valve at the bottom of the main body is scored so bad, that it will leak unless you send it to Sal Cicala, so he can buff it out for you and fix it right.
 
Are you sure you installed the little check ball in the bottom of the accelerator pump chamber with the spring clip. That ball sits in a little hole and is held down by the spring clip. On Holley 2100 and 2110's, that ball can jump out of the hole.
The clip can be removed and installed with super-long-nosed needle pliers. Difficult, but it gets easier with practice. Then you turn the clip by rotating counterclockwise until the straight end of the clip is centered over that little ball. It needs to be PERFECTLY centered.
 
You should be around 450-550 to adjust the carb. If you are a good bit over that you may have the throttle butterflies too open and by passing the idle circuit.
 
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i think i've had a bad gas or something like that on the fuel line or fuel pump now the car runs good, thank you guys for help me
 
I find that my idle mixture screw adjustment requirements can change with the weather. If I really wanted to keep my car idling perfectly, I would probably need to fiddle with it just a little every time I drove it. For example, yesterday it idled perfectly, and I did nothing to it. A few days earlier, though, the idle was OK, but not as smooth as yesterday. On really hot humid days, it never actually idles perfectly smooth. I have the original carb.
 
hello guys, i found on ebay one new old stock replacement kit for 2bb 2110 holley carburetor, i'll rebuild it with again, now i have big leaks with it
what do you think about it ? i post the pic
 

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56yblock said:
hello guys, i found on ebay one new old stock replacement kit for 2bb 2110 holley carburetor, i'll rebuild it with again, now i have big leaks with it
what do you think about it ? i post the pic
Click to expand...

That is a kit for a '57 Ford Holley 2300 or Autolite 2100 two barrel carburetor. It willl not work. It's for a completely different style carburetor. Plus it looks old enough to be not compatible with today's fuel with ethanol.

Sal
 
I didn't notice there were two different kits in the pictures at first. The one on the right looks like it may be correct for your carb, but it's so old, I doubt if the power valve is compatible with gas having ethanol in it. Don't know if they put ethanol in the fuel where you live.

Sal
 
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