help, i intend on putting this engine in my 46 mercury.came across this engine from a friend who claims it is a 46-48 engine.the bell housing says 59 L, one head is a 59A-B the other A,crab distributor but the fan is connected to the crank pully which tells me it might be a earlier year.i would like to know if i could use this engine and can the crank pulley be swaped to two pulley unit like on the 46 ?i'll try posting pictures.thanks, john
ID help with this engine
- Thread starter jiw1
- Start date
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The post war engine in question was likely used in a prewar vehicle for a while. They used crank driven fans for 39 deluxe through 41. As was mentioned heads from early engines will fit the 59 family. Most 59 series are 239 cid but not all.
Some of the 59 family blocks were cast as 221 blocks but they usually have some characteristics of the prewar design and will pass the pencil test above the timing gear cover. These 221 blocks are the 41A types and were cast as replacements for the prewar blocks but they have the 59 on the back bell since they were all cast in the same flask or core box assembly and on the same production line.
Some of the 59 family blocks were cast as 221 blocks but they usually have some characteristics of the prewar design and will pass the pencil test above the timing gear cover. These 221 blocks are the 41A types and were cast as replacements for the prewar blocks but they have the 59 on the back bell since they were all cast in the same flask or core box assembly and on the same production line.
thank you both for great information.rotorwrench, what is the pencil test?and is there a possibilty this 59L could be a 221?this engine does run and all cylinders are above 100 psi.if compression is that good can i assume there are no cracks in the combustion area?the oil is clean and does not show any evidence of water in it.there is no water in the cooling system so how can i test for cracks in the water jackets? thanks again
JSeery
Member Emeritus
Pencil test - could you rest a pencil on the block just above the timing cover without it falling off. Earlier blocks yes, later blocks no.
Best to do a pressure test to check for cracks. Requires the heads being removed and replaced with a test plate (on the head surface and water pump surface). Block water jacket is pressurized and checked for leaks. It could possibly be done with the heads on, but difficult to do and difficult to see into the water jackets. But it might show if it would hold pressure.
Best to do a pressure test to check for cracks. Requires the heads being removed and replaced with a test plate (on the head surface and water pump surface). Block water jacket is pressurized and checked for leaks. It could possibly be done with the heads on, but difficult to do and difficult to see into the water jackets. But it might show if it would hold pressure.
While I agree that most 59 series engines will fail the pencil test, there are early 59 series that will pass the test. Every one I have seen started out with a 3 1/16 bore and most were factory relieved. Best to measure the bore to know for sure. I have never seen a 59 series with an L suffix have a 3 1/16 bore however.
Tinker
Well-known member
81a and 99a you can see the raised area if not milled. 59a is usually stamped on the bell housing and has a 2 bolt timing cover, usually.
I know this has some discrepancy to some things but is a decent guide.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243515&highlight=evolution+flathead
http://www.goldengatev8.org/tips/EvolutionOfTheFlathead.pdf
Another great reference and source.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-85to100mid.htm
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I know this has some discrepancy to some things but is a decent guide.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243515&highlight=evolution+flathead
http://www.goldengatev8.org/tips/EvolutionOfTheFlathead.pdf
Another great reference and source.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-85to100mid.htm
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I've been testing flatheads by using radiator hoses connected bottom to bottom and top to top with a radiator fill made for race cars ( I think ) I can run the pressure up to 20 lbs with a rad hand pump tester . I can run the motor with just water in it and keep the pressure tester on it and shut off when 180 degree and either increase pressure or relieve pressure . I usually only test to 10 lbs . I did run a couple 24 stud motors , used ready for rebuild but believed to be crack free , to 15-18 lbs . Let sit over night . Had a fast leak on one out the center exhaust , which narrowed the search area quick .
scicala
Well-known member
That coil looks like a Ford E core coil like they used on EFI engines in the late 80's and 90's. Guess it works good here too as long as 12 volts.
Sal