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don's 37

don's 37

Senior Member
After a 8 year restoration I finally got my 1937 Ford fordor 85 HP car out on the road. My dad and I drove it about 9 miles without any issues. The car on a 73 degree day was running around 160. We stopped at a friends house, left the car at idle for about 3 minutes to say hi and the temp climbed to about 195. We left his house heading home and then everything changed. The car had no power, skipped, bucked and received one back fire. We barely made it home. I removed the spark plugs and they were black! The valves were even black. I cleaned the plugs and then let the car sit until it was cool. I restarted it and it was like a brand new car again until about 3 minutes later it was right back to screwing up. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, should be concerned about my oil pressure? I'm running 10W-30. When hot I'm at 21 lbs. At idle is about 9. I'm running standard size bearings and a new Dennis Carpenter 50 lb. pump. I'm a little disappointed with the oil pressure and I hope this is sufficent. What do you think?

Thanks in advanced! Don
 
My first guess would be to change the condenser. Regarding the oil pressure, 9 lbs. at idle is ok. The 20 lbs. might, or might not be good depending on RPM. Having said that, the full floating system can be very forgiving.
 
we have been fighting this condition in a newly rebuilt 38 engine, turned out the"power valve" in the carb was the problem-ethanol gas melted it!! The 38 is running a electronic ignition and during this time still had a strong blue spark, engine was just being flooded with gas. We now have a plug for a power valve and so far it is about 100% better ( we tried about 4 other power valves)
 
Sounds more like fuel than electrical (real black plugs is usually a too rich mixture?). I would try a new power valve. Get one ethanol safe.
 
My 37 did the same thing once I got it on the road. It would run great for a little while and then start popping and sputtering.I cleaned the plugs and took my breather off and tried it again,It worked fine! found out that the little after market made in China breather would not flow any air!
 
Like the others, it sounds like a condensor. If you have the new type coil and adaptor you can find a replacement at NAPA. Do yourself a favor and place it on the coil instead of the distributor. It makes it a lot easier to replace. Buy two, place one in the glove box. Cheap insurance and they go without warning.

Shadetree
 
I suspect the condensor or a bad coil. Exactly the same symptoms I had on a 38. Changed the coil and condensor and problem solved.
 
Well...yes, in a way. Last fall I replaced the condenser and installed a "Skip" coil. This spring I was driving it on a very warm day and when the engine temp climbed again the engine sounded like it had a race cam in it. I'm having people tell me now it's heat soak. I'm hoping I'll be able to remove the carb studs so that I can install a 1/4 inch phenolic spacer on it. Thanks for asking.
 
You say the raditor was cleaned.Thats and old raditor and when they are fixed sonetimes the rotted cored are pinched off.With all the work you have done I would get a new core or raditor.
 
Thanks, I have a current issue of 'sputtering' so your topic came up on the search.
Sounds like a "race cam", was that at certain rpm?, at idle, could be ignition, I'd check the voltage at the coil, maybe too low?, not enough to fire all the plugs?
 
Also, any loose or open vacuum ports around the carb or maybe on the manifold? I remember something about spraying WD40 or starting ether in a suspect area and see if the idle changes
 
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