I need some shocks! having some sticker shock!

sidhartha said:
Hitchhiker said:
I need some shocks for my 1931 Pickup....I've been looking, But I am starting to have some sticker shock. Why are they so expensive and hard to find? I have a hard time spending 15% of what I paid for the truck for some rebuilt shocks. But I don't want to alter the truck either for another style. Any help or advice would be great. Are the reproductions bad? they seem to have a lot of bad press. thanks Matt[/

I've got a conversion kit made by Ryan Kaye. It was a little over $300.00 delivered and came complete with Gabriel shocks and didn't require drilling extra holes anywhere as I didn't want to drill holes in the front axle. The ride is good and I no longer have issues with body roll in a corner like I'd had before. They're a great alternative to the originals. I can always change back and not have any telltale signs the modern shocks where ever there.
Click to expand...


Do you have contact information for Ryan Kaye? Bill G
Click to expand...
 
Just checked my model a news Robert Paul has been rebuilding great shocks for years the price today Is $55.00 and buying them outright is $85.00 his phone #is 719-478-5102 address is 34175 tructon rd yoder co 80864 hope tis helps!!!
 
Hitchhiker said:
I need some shocks for my 1931 Pickup....I've been looking, But I am starting to have some sticker shock. Why are they so expensive and hard to find? I have a hard time spending 15% of what I paid for the truck for some rebuilt shocks. But I don't want to alter the truck either for another style. Any help or advice would be great. Are the reproductions bad? they seem to have a lot of bad press. thanks Matt
Click to expand...



We bought two sets of schocks from Dick Pirkl, Tubular Convrsions. Ph no. 608 575 7433. Met Dick in Wisconsin at a Model A Nat'l Convention and drove his "demo". No holes to drill. His shocks are strong, comfortable and easy to install. Price for all 4 shocks from Dick is just $325.00.
 
Just a suggestion about getting things loose ,I use 1 molasses with 10 of water .Let stay for two weeks then put the rusty part in it for about a month . The other that works fast and is the best is 50-50 acetone and automatic oil or lacquer thinner .The latter was tested with a nut the needed 500 ft lbs to un do .most other things like Kroll, WD40 took 250 to 3oo ft lbs where as the acetone and Automatic oil took 50 lbs in just a few days,and is reasonable for cost and availability
 
A lot of talk about bad or unrebuildable shocks . Now what makes a shock go bad ? How can one keep a good shock from going bad.????? Tony
 
Tony S said:
A lot of talk about bad or unrebuildable shocks . Now what makes a shock go bad ? How can one keep a good shock from going bad.????? Tony
Click to expand...

The glycerin used in them originally, is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the air. So when the shocks leaked a bit and there was an air gap, and that air gap filled with water, and when that water was absorbed into the glycerin, corrosion was the result. The corrosion can be repaired, but you would want to do it yourself, as it is highly labour intensive, and if you pay by the hour for someone elses labour, you'd want to own a gold mine. Another wear spot is on the shaft where it exits the shock body, this can also be repaired, either by sleeving, or build up with weld, and turned back down to size.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top