I Give Up

Eight years ago I had what seemed to be a fuel problem in a Tudor.It would quit after about 1/2 hour.After another few minutes it would run againAfter draining a couple of gallons through the bottom of the carb I said,no,not a fuel problem.I did have a nice looking blue spark.While checking the spark,for the 10'th time,I didn't quite get my hand off the spark tester in time.I felt it,but not very strong.So I held onto the coil wire and spun it over.I felt every spark,but it wasn't a big jolt.I should have been knocked on my butt doing that.I unscrewed the popout cabe from the distributer,and put in the jumper I have.Huge hot spark.This was a very original unrestored car,and when I took the switch out I saw a bunch of scratches on the back.Somebody had either been in there or tried to.I didn't even fool with it,I sent it to MR Crabtree and he said there were only two strands of wire still holding together in there.
 
As previously mentioned check fuel flow.
Check your manifold gasket for leaks. There could be a small height difference between the intake and exhaust surfaces on your manifold causing an intake leak. The manifold could also have a crack.
 
rfitzpatrick said:
I'm 83 -- both sides (hip-replacement) begins the 24th -- I was afraid I'm to try to view the tank-outlet. Since 2018 I've owned this Budd-Cab, not sure what's in the tank, tho I was thinking of blowing air back thru the shut-off -- I don't know what else to do right now.
TKS
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Blowing compressed air back through your fuel lines and shut off valve sounds like a good idea, removing the fuel line at the carburetor and checking for a good strong and long lasting flow would be another choice. Your steel gas lines may be rusty on the inside slowing flow, you may have rust behind the shut off valve slowing flow, IF you have an in tank screen it maybe partially clogged.
 
OK, I took the advise about blowing back thru the fuel tank shut-off. As I was closing this up, I noticed my FireWall Fuel ShutOff wasn't dripping (leaking) anymore. Before, I had about an 8 seconds fuel drip -- this should have been a clue? My fuel line is relative new as I'd changed Carbs a couple times, - my acceleration returned -- tho just one drive around town might not be enough to measure any success. Anyway, it's a start.

TKS Everyone
 
It's rather amazing how much fuel can exit an un-pluged fire-wall shut-off valve, and it's fast too!
But I got a new distributor/carburetor/coil out of the deal first.

TKS Guys
 
katy said:
Are you saying that your car has 2 shut off valves?
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I have two on my Town Sedan. I keep the one at the tank closed for better fuel economy... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

562173
 

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Y-Blockhead said:
I have two on my Town Sedan. I keep the one at the tank closed for better fuel economy... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

562173
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My PicUp is August 1931, my shut-off is Engine Bay (indented firewall/), I have the 11 gallon tank.
It's a Budd Cab -- (all medal roof/sun visor). I'm getting some advise/help from our local Model A Club, unfortunately the shop is 50 miles North (West Palm Beach). Today, suggested something called Purple-Power concreated to use, and to followed up with water? Anyway, I'm not ready just yet to pursue.
TKS
 
katy said:
Are you saying that your car has 2 shut off valves?
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It sounds to me that he has a late 31 with the indented firewall. The valve screws into the tank through the firewall, there’s a trough no the bottom of the tank that holds crap behind the valve and slows or stops fuel from flowing. I just modified mine, 1/4 turn ball valve and then a tee for a dirty leg filter. The ball valve has a larger opening than the original type valve, hopefully will let the tank crap to flow out and into the dirty leg which can then be cleaned out easily. I’ve tried a glass sediment filter since abandoned, a tank filter in the original type valve that was good for a couple years, but was causing slow fuel flow and removed for the 1/4 turn ball valve.
 
rfitzpatrick said:
My PicUp is August 1931, my shut-off is Engine Bay (indented firewall/), I have the 11 gallon tank.
It's a Budd Cab -- (all medal roof/sun visor). I'm getting some advise/help from our local Model A Club, unfortunately the shop is 50 miles North (West Palm Beach). Today, suggested something called Purple-Power concentrate to use, and to followed up with water? Anyway, I'm not ready just yet to pursue.
TKS
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I placed a really strong magnet on the bottom of my tank to collect any rust before it gets to the tank outlet.

I had to look up Purple Power. Doesn't sound like a rust remover, just a degreaser.

Big hammer said:
I just modified mine, 1/4 turn ball valve and then a tee for a dirty leg filter. The ball valve has a larger opening than the original type valve, hopefully will let the tank crap to flow out and into the dirty leg which can then be cleaned out easily.
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I like Big Hammer's suggestion for a "dead leg".
 
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nkaminar said:
Recent article in the Restorer magazine was about the same symptoms. Turns out the float was too light. Some floats now are made too light. The solution was to glue a washer to the top of the float, but the real solution would be to find a float of the right weight.
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For the record these light weight floats are nothing new.

The newly manufactured floats that I saw recently look like exact copies of the ones that I saw in the early 1960s.

I wonder how long it is going to take for these parts to be purged from the supply chain THIS TIME!

Same 24 to 25 grams in weight ...

They even have the same stamp on the float hanger just like they did 63 years ago: "Industria Argentina" (along with THE small diamond with a letter "N" inside the diamond between the two names.)

Looks like somebody found the tooling for these floats and think they are going to make a killing undercutting the prices on the float market.
 
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Benson said:
For the record these light weight floats are nothing new.

The newly manufactured floats that I saw recently look like exact copies of the ones that I saw in the early 1960s.

I wonder how long it is going to take for these parts to be purged from the supply chain THIS TIME!

Same 24 to 25 grams in weight ...

They even have the same stamp on the float hanger just like they did 63 years ago: "Industria Argentina" (along with THE small diamond with a letter "N" inside the diamond between the two names.)

Looks like somebody found the tooling for these floats and think they are going to make a killing undercutting the prices on the float market.

This person no doubt has an MBA (Masters in Bean Accounting)
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Maybe someone found some NOS floats and thought they found a gold mine (brass mine??) and not know the difference... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Hello, I had a Dodgy truck that acted the same way, found out the inside of muffler was collapsed and plugged up the exhaust system, could be possible mouse nest in exhaust pipe ? Just a thought. Good luck on the problem.
 
gdmn852 said:
Hello, I had a Dodgy truck that acted the same way, found out the inside of muffler was collapsed and plugged up the exhaust system, could be possible mouse nest in exhaust pipe ? Just a thought. Good luck on the problem.
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TKS, -- it's driven at least 4 days a week, depending on Doctors Appointments??
I'm studying how to clean the tank myself, I've no help. Already ordered a new shut-off valve. Just not sure how to approach this right now.
 
I want to know how the carburetor knows that you've driven 10 miles, it's all metal parts. The carburetor has nothing in its function that after 1 mile or 100 miles changes on it own. The fuel level in the bowl doesn't change. The jet sizes don't change. There's nothing left. If it's rust or debris, why is it taking 10 miles and why would it ever go away. As soon as you took it apart you would see the rust. It's not just going to magically start flowing again for 10 miles and then plug up again, 10 miles is at least a half gallon of gas through the carburetor. Heat soaked carburetors can act up, but unless you're in 110° environment like southern Arizona, I highly doubt that's your issue.
Seems like immediately after it starts acting up you could undo the fuel line from the carburetor and check for adequate flow and pull one of the spark plug leads and crank it to see if you have bright blue spark. Two easy quick things to check, don't give up you'll find it. Good luck.😃
 
Had a similar presentation on a boat. After about 20 minutes performance degraded. Turned out to be a poor wire connection which heated up and lost continuity - until it cooled down. Might check voltage to the coil before and after performance drops off. Be sure and tell us the cure - this is an interesting caper.
 
"Be sure and tell us the cure - this is an interesting caper.[/QUOTE]"

Sure.
I'm trying with some help from our Club -- I've hip-replacement scheduled the 24th. Just installed a new coil, with no change. I'll check my wiring.
I keep thinking: Fuel Starvation

Thanks
 
katy said:
What type of strainer?

It's a bowl with the strainer at the very top, like a wafer, perhaps. In the 7 years ownership, I'v monitored that and use Marvel Mystery in the fuel tank. Last few years, I've found no rust flakes settlement in the bowl. After reading several posts, I'm undecided whether it's fuel or electric.

It's a '31 Indented FireWall with all fueling in the Engine Bay
I'm getting quite concerned now
TKS
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