Hydraulic Brakes over Mechanical

Canton_Model_A's

Canton_Model_A's

Senior Member
Just a question to throw out there. Is a conversion from mechanical to hydraulic brakes worth the cost and effort? Also, how does the e-brake work when you convert?
 
Just an opinion - juice brakes conversions are like going to electronic ignition, 12V ground system, V8 clutch, modern stearing box, and turn signals. Certainly there are safety benefits over an at least adequate system but some of us find a certain amount of appreciation for how it was back in the day. I lean toward the "time machine" concept which takes us back to those halcyon days of emerging automotive technology. In the final analysis it is a personal decision for which there should be no criticism.
 
Properly maintained and adjusted Model A mechanical brakes will allow you to lock up all four wheels. Why would you want or need juice brakes? I can see perhaps a justification if you went to tires with a larger contact patch (say radials on 16" wheels) but otherwise not. Interestingly enough, the only on-tour brake troubles I can recall in my club have come from juice brakes.
 
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I agree with JayJay. I don't see much benefit to converting to juice brakes useless you have a highly modified drive train and plan on driving on the interstate at 65 MPH.
 
I used to have a very nice original 39 ,and a 46 but got tired of the brake failures, grabbing when a little fluid leaked.
In side by side testing the A with original brakes out stopped the 39
If you look over on the V8 side consistently the longest running posts are about problems with hydraulic brake conversion and making stock juice brakes work — most at least 5 pages with no solution.
In all my years of driving the only cars that have had total brake failures were hydraulic brake cars.
Now I have the A and a 36 because they have reliable mechanical brakes.
 
If you are going to drive the car frequently, yes they are necessary. They were made for heavier cars that ran faster, they have larger, cast iron drums, 12" drums that have wider shoes. If you are going to putt around slowly with other A's, maybe not.
 
The only problem that I see with mechanical brakes is not being properly rebuilt and adjusted.

If done correctly! Using stock tires! Once there locked up! You can’t do better with juice brakes.

I liken it to rebuilding your front end. You can’t go half way. You should take the system completely apart. Any parts that are worn should be replaced. There is no “Half Way”.

Most Model A’s are not that well serviced. Than there are the owners that just want to in their view, improve the cars design.

Enjoy
 
I like hydraulic brakes IF DONE PROPERLY. I think they are necessary for safety reasons if you are going to drive in todays traffic. I am happy with using the 1939-48 type Ford brakes although there are better (and more expensive) options out there. If you use the 1940 to 1948 brake drums remember that you need to run a spacer if you use the original wire wheels (see http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1286293&posted=1#post1286293).

It has been a while but I don't remember any problem hooking up the emergency brakes, the rod from the emergency brake handle that pulled the rod for the mechanical brakes now pulls the cable for the emergency brakes.


Charlie Stephens
 
An older friend of mine had several old Fords. Was used to them never having brakes. One day we pulled his 35? fire truck out of the building and I stepped on the brakes, and it stopped right now. I asked him why and he said the brakes are mechanical.
 
My feeling? The comments above about being properly rebuilt and adjusted holds true for both mechanical brakes and hydraulics. You can get almost everything you need to do a great job on mechanicals from any of the best suppliers ............... Bratton's, Snyder's, Mike"s, Bert's. In the case of hydraulics, you can, and should, see and opt for the same degree of parts quality from Snyder's or Bolling Bros. Start with 4 new hubs& drums in both cases and keep going. The days of buying used 40-48 hydraulic parts will continue to give you a mediocre system akin to a poor original mechanical system. AND, before you do a full system brake rebuild, it will be to your advantage to do just as thorough a front end rebuild. Yes, $$$$$ will add up easily for all of this. It's the best safety upgrade you can do.
 
I have two cars with hydraulic and one with mechanical. All 3 stop great. It's about knowing HOW to properly set up both systems.
 
Also consider other changes. Had a '30 Coupe with hydraulic brake conversion. The master cylinder was mounted on the inside fire wall. The brake pedal was inside the cut away gas tank. A tank was located in the trunk with an electric fuel pump. This can be done, just understand the total effort versus benefit.

My $0.02
 
California Travieso said:
Charlie,

Do you need wheel spacers if you're using 16" wire wheels?

David Serrano
Click to expand...
YES. Put a straight edge in the lug hole area and you will find that the 1935 16 inch wire wheels were designed to be supported at two different levels, just like all of the other wire wheels 1929-1935. You can bolt the wheels on and they look like they are working but you will probably eventually end up with cracks in the lug nut holes.

Charlie Stephens
 
Yes, properly adjusted mechanical brakes can stop the A. The Flat Head Ted kits help reduce the foot pressure needed to do that. Not a fix-all for a brake system that is worn out, but they do a good job with brakes that are in good condition.

The advantage of hydraulic brakes is that, if all the brakes are adjusted correctly, the braking on all 4 corners is uniform.
 
I've installed hydraulic brakes on three A's, all of them with 60+ HP at the rear wheels and radial tires. Speedway Motors sells all the new parts necessary to make the conversions. NAPA also carries wheel cylinders and master cylinders. Every time I read one of these threads, I feel deprived because according to some here, my wheel cylinders don't leak, I can't "skid" my tires and I've ruined anther A.
 
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