Hub puller

I've had good success just using the simple knocker that screws on the axle threads.
Here's how: Leave the wheel ON--jack up the opposite wheel--screw the knocker on & tighten it with a 15" Crescent wrench with blow from a 48 oz hammer--then give it ONLY ONE blow from a BIG hammer--then tighten the knocker again---then give it ONLY ONE blow again!--Keep repeating this & it'll pop off! The trick is to tighten & hit, tighten & hit.
I've even taken them an old rear end layin' on the ground, that way. Just poke on an old bare wheel on one side & use the above procedure. Remember to keep tightening the knocker & hit it ONLY ONCE between tightenings, THAT'S THE SECRET! (I used to work in a wrecking yard & learned LOTS of tricks there!)
Bill W.
 
The one on ebay is made by the son of one of our club members. They really know their stuff when it comes to Model A's and early V8's. FWIW.
 
On the stud type...they definitely CAN destroy things in a hard pull. I used one once to take apart a very rusty rear with very tight hubs once, and it flexed the hub enough to actually cause the drum to crack across its working surface as it tried to open up and match the hub...no loss, as everything exposed on the rear was already scrap iron, but I would sure hate to destroy a good hub and drum. I did not think to check to see if hub distortion was permanent, but I'd certainly bet that it was.
The noise when the drum let go was pretty exciting, too...dog and I both went straight up in the air!
The better old pullers, KRW, Plomb, and Snap on came with a screw-on cap to protect the threads and apply the push mostly to center of axle. I think this is a necessity...force can be enough to mushroom the axle, and even if that is limited by the nut you have damage.
A cap could be made by cutting down a repro knocker.
 
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