hub puller directions

[34fordy]

I have looked at the directions for different hub pullers and am confused about the axle nut that is used when using the different pullers. Some say to tighten the nut down until it bottoms on the top of the axle and then back-off 1/2 turn or more--This would make me think the pressure was being put on the threads--I read a few post on another site and it lead me to believe that all the pressure should be put on the end of the axle--With the cotter slot below it would seem that it could crush the top few threads--
I have not seen directions for the original Wilson puller so I am not aware of what is recommended--I also thought about putting a jam nut below the puller axle nut to encompass more thread. What have you Barners experienced in this job? Thanks, Don

 

[ford38v8]

I tighten the nut finger tight. It's going to go there anyway when you start cranking the puller down, so put it where it doesn't wobble from the git go.

 

[19Fordy]

On the KR WILSON style hub puller made by Winfield Tool Works you remove the axle nut completely and install a metal cap over the end of the axle. The cap is center drilled to accept the pointed screw which you turn to apply pressure and remove the hub. The cap also protects the end of the axle from mushrooming. Works wonderfully well! If you don't have the cap you may damage the axle threads. The one shown cost $150 in 2008 as advertised in the V-8 TIMES Magazine.. Click on photo to enlarge.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

The nut on this K.R. Wilson puller that I borrowed has internal threads, so when I used the puller to remove a very tight/stubborn to remove drum, I just hand tightened this nut on the axle threads until it stopped on the end of the axle. This allows the load to be shared between the end of the axle and the threads so neither area is over stressed.

Then, shortly after borrowing this puller, I bought my own KRW puller that was used, but still in excellent condition. Now the nut on mine has no internal threads, it just fits over the axle threads and bottoms out on the end of the axle, so there is no option on how this nut is located.

Not sure which of these two nut designs, for the KRW pullers mentioned above, came first, but both designs seem to work well.

These pics were taken of the one I borrowed. These KRW pullers are the "cat's meow" and work extremely well IMO.

 

[34fordy]

Thanks to all who responded as my question has been answered. I had looked for the Wilson puller at swap meets but could not find one. Also considered the Vintage model that resembles the Wilson and looks very good. In my searches there was a reference to a post on the Hamb entitled Tech-Lo-Buck Early Ford Hub/Drum puller by oldrelics. He had built one similar in design to the Wilson from scraps he had in his shop. Well, I had nearly everything I needed so I fashioned one similar to his design. I just was not sure about the axle cap and whether to let any pressure bear on the threads or not. I believe now that there should be no great pressure on the threads per the responses received, as the cap directs the pressure to the end of the axle. Thanks again to all. Don

 

[19Fordy]

Not sure I fully comprehended your post BUT, be sure to make and use a cap that just slips over the axle threads and is self-centering on the axle and the puller screw. That way the downward force of the screw is distributed evenly on the tip of the axle.

 

[rich b]

I made a similar puller to the "oldrelics" puller mentioned above. I welded a piece of 3/8" steel to a 5/8" nut, put a recess in the other side to pilot the pusher bolt. I just spin it on the axle until it bottoms on the end. Straight push on the axle, no real load on the threads.

 

[34fordy]

Not sure I fully comprehended your post BUT, be sure to make and use a cap that just slips over the axle threads and is self-centering on the axle and the puller screw. That way the downward force of the screw is distributed evenly on the tip of the axle.

In JM 35 Sedan response he mentioned that he had used two different Wilson pullers. One axle protector had internal threads and the other just slipped over the axle. This led me to believe that pressure should not be placed on the threads. Just on the end of the axle. It appeared to me in your post picture that you have the cap without internal threads. I wonder if this was an improvement made to later models.

 

[19Fordy]

I think it was an improvement, but not sure when.

 

[Tinker]

I posted earlier but see I wasn't talking about the KRW puller so I op'ed out.

On a personal note I would think the biggest goal is to protect the axle from bungin' the cotterpin hole. A cap without adding threads just is a piece of metal you put between the axle end and the puller. I would suggest a threaded, bottom out'ed cap would be much better. But that's just my opinion.

Saying that, i have used a standard puller (just like the model A puller) with a axle nut near flush and it's worked so far.

 

[34fordy]

I posted earlier but see I wasn't talking about the KRW puller so I op'ed out.

On a personal note I would think the biggest goal is to protect the axle from bungin' the cotterpin hole. A cap without adding threads just is a piece of metal you put between the axle end and the puller. I would suggest a threaded, bottom out'ed cap would be much better. But that's just my opinion.

Saying that, i have used a standard puller (just like the model A puller) with a axle nut near flush and it's worked so far.

I had a concern about the cotter pin hole also but have not read where anyone had a problem with crush. I thought about putting a hard pin in the hole to prevent any collapse and just drive it back out after removing the hub. I haven't tested the puller yet so may try it when I start the job.

 

[Tinker]

I heard one time; think, think, do or do, think, think. Both have their advantages.

Both have merit. Give'it hell!

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

In JM 35 Sedan response he mentioned that he had used two different Wilson pullers. One axle protector had internal threads and the other just slipped over the axle. This led me to believe that pressure should not be placed on the threads. Just on the end of the axle. It appeared to me in your post picture that you have the cap without internal threads. I wonder if this was an improvement made to later models.

34, the KRW puller in the above pictures, with the threaded protective nut, looks brand new, while the one I bought about a week later with no threads in the protective nut appears to have had a lot more use. However, it was used in a working garage while the one pictured above was in a private collection, and probably saw little usage. They are both KRW reproductions by Winfield Tool Co., but I am thinking the one pictured is probably the oldest. In theory, if the threaded nut is not at least hand tightened against the end of the axle, it's more likely to damage the threads in use as compared to the nut on mine that has no threads and just slides over the axle threads until the end of the axle bottoms out inside the nut. Maybe someone who just purchased a new one from Winfield could let us know if theirs has threads or not.

 

[Tinker]

I had a concern about the cotter pin hole also but have not read where anyone had a problem with crush. I thought about putting a hard pin in the hole to prevent any collapse and just drive it back out after removing the hub. I haven't tested the puller yet so may try it when I start the job.

Not that I've pulled hundreds of hubs but I haven't had that happen either. But I've messed up a perch pin before by not using the nut.

 

[Kerk]

I have an original wilson puller and a second one that does not have the cast K.R. Wilson cast into it but is the same. I had a large blind nut made (not open end But the threads turned out in the end) so it mcan be turned onto the end on the axle until it bottoms out. This allows the puller to pull against the end as well as the axle while protecting the threads. Jm2cw. Kerk

 

[19Fordy]

"To thread or not to thread."
When a point is "moot" give it the boot.

 

[Mart]

The vintage precision puller states specifically to thread on the protective cap nut (it is threaded) but then it should be backed off a little (I can't remember if it said one turn or 1/2 a turn). This ensures that the puller load IS directed through the threads, not just on the end. Personally I can't say if this is the best way, but that's what VP recommend, and I have followed the instructions. I have only used it 3 or 4 times but it has worked well, even shifting one hub that my previous puller failed to budge.

Mart.

 

[flatheadv8]

The vintage precision puller states specifically to thread on the protective cap nut (it is threaded) but then it should be backed off a little (I can't remember if it said one turn or 1/2 a turn). This ensures that the puller load IS directed through the threads, not just on the end. Personally I can't say if this is the best way, but that's what VP recommend, and I have followed the instructions. I have only used it 3 or 4 times but it has worked well, even shifting one hub that my previous puller failed to budge.

Mart.

I agree, I recently bought and used a Vintage precision puller. Worked like a charm! Nice heavy machined tool. I was very impressed. Price was great as well.

I called the Winfield Tool Co. and they told me that they are no longer producing the puller and that they have sold everything to another company (Can't recall the name, but have it written down somewhere). I called the other company and they said they had two left. Price was a bit high for what I wanted to pay. $250+