How to treat the new Front Leaf Spring

Christoph

Christoph

Well-known member
Got myself a new Front Leaf Spring and it says "Show Quality"
Its assembled and with center spring bolt and bronze shackle bushings.
So far, so good.

But - This is raw steel. :eek:

Now how should i treat it prior to mounting it into the car?
Demount the center spring bolt again and paint each leaf ???
Please advise

Thank you
Christoph
 
Un bolt everything. On the surfaces that will touch each other, spray with "Slip Plate". After it's dry, re-assemble and then paint the assembled spring with a good quality black chassis paint. I used Rustoleum Professional spray paint. Not sure what you would have available there.
 

Attachments

  • Slip Plate 330403.jpg
    Slip Plate 330403.jpg
    7.3 KB · Views: 40
Not to be a stick in the mud but wouldn't it be better to paint each leaf before applying slip plate?

Sure where the leafs rub the paint may flake off but everywhere it doesnt rub would be coated with paint to prevent rust and then with the 2nd preventative of rust the slip plate would be there.

what killed alot of the leafs i see is water getting trapped between each leaf and causing pits. If its painted and greasy it should outlast you.
 
Either way, just make sure to get the slip plate (or other lubricant) in between each leaf.
 
"Not to be a stick in the mud but wouldn't it be better to paint each leaf before applying slip plate?"

That will increase the spring rate to a point where you think you have no springs.


"Un bolt everything. On the surfaces that will touch each other, spray with "Slip Plate". After it's dry, re-assemble and then paint the assembled spring with a good quality black chassis paint. I used Rustoleum Professional spray paint. Not sure what you would have available there."

About the only way to improve on that would be, have the leaves Parkerized before spraying with Slip Plate.

If you want the "stock look" just go with the paint.

If you want to keep water out, wrap the spring with black electrical tape from the eye to the U-bolt area.

If you want the real fancy look, get some of the old leather spring covers.
 
Pete said:
"Not to be a stick in the mud but wouldn't it be better to paint each leaf before applying slip plate?"

That will increase the spring rate to a point where you think you have no springs.
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate? Im not saying your wrong by any means i just don't understand how paint and grease increases the spring rate:confused:

By saying "think you have no springs" do you mean the car will sit lower or "bottom out" on hard bumps or be bouncy as can be?

I do know when i had to replace the shocks on my modern pickup with rear leafs i bounced the back-end with no shocks attached and i didn't think it would ever stop bouncing!:eek:
 
SeaSlugs said:
Can you elaborate? Im not saying your wrong by any means i just don't understand how paint and grease increases the spring rate:confused:

Grease and paint are a very poor lubricant. Grease alone is ok.
The paint would break down quickly from pressure and become GRIT.

Grease and oil are a poor spring lube because they attract dirt and grit.
It becomes like you lubed the spring with valve lapping compound.
That's why most people use Slip Plate or Dry Moly spray.

By saying "think you have no springs" do you mean the car will sit lower or "bottom out" on hard bumps or be bouncy as can be?

It would be extremely stiff with limited travel.

I do know when i had to replace the shocks on my modern pickup with rear leafs i bounced the back-end with no shocks attached and i didn't think it would ever stop bouncing!:eek:
Click to expand...
...
 
To prep a spring for use I first sandblast each leaf then grind any wear pockets smooth. I then grind a bevel on the bottom of each leaf to help prevent it wearing another pocket in the next leaf under it.

I then paint each leaf, coat the bottom of each leaf with Mystik JT-6 and sprinkle graphite on the grease. I then assemble the pack and wrap it with spring covers.

This is my friend's rear spring, which he had powdercoated.
 

Attachments

  • Spring Lube.jpg
    Spring Lube.jpg
    126.1 KB · Views: 77
  • Spring Lube2.jpg
    Spring Lube2.jpg
    65 KB · Views: 67
When I did my springs, I sand blasted to remove corrosion. Skirfed the mating surfaces. Then chamfered the ends where they slide over the leaf below. Then applied a dry graphite lube, Lubribond 122, on all rubbing surfaces. Then assembled. Finally, remove excess lube from exposed surfaces with my favourite paint prep solvent and paint assembled.
 
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]Thank you for your [/FONT]suggestions !
FB is the place to be....

No Slip-Plate available over here.

Will use some othe special grease
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]http://www.mike-sander.de/[/FONT]
which (as well) protects against corrosion.
Will use some Graphite with that.
Than assamble again.
Than some paint (just outside).
Than more grease.

Than "Fettband" which is a warp-arround
http://mike.british-cars.de/Info_Fettband.htm
This keeps grease inside and it keeps water and
dirt outside ....

As this wont look original, i will use the original
spring-covers from the vendors to hide this.

Sounds like lots of work, but i do not want
do that again (within the next 85 years )
:D

Thank you again

Best regards
Christoph

[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]

[/FONT]
 
Christoph said:
Sounds like lots of work, but i do not want
do that again (within the next 85 years )
:D
[FONT=Arial, sans-serif]

[/FONT]
Click to expand...

this is the question i keep asking myself as i go along restoring my truck: do i REALLY want to have to pull apart the worm drive rear end again? fight the rear leaf springs off? tear apart the transmission after its already been in the truck? etc

I used to be on a super tight budget - now its well i want it to look correct as possible sooo save my pennies and do it right the first time:cool:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top