How to repaint a 1940 Ford Deluxe Dash?

push_rod

push_rod

Member
Both of my family's 40's are modified, but I have always loved the look of the stock two-toned Deluxe dashboards! I currently have an extra dash I'd like to repaint in the original colors, and assemble to display on the wall. In fact, I went ahead and bought Bob Drakes spray cans of the maroon and sand colors. Now I have some questions...

Has anyone here used Bob Drake's spray cans of 1940 dash paint? If yes, then what is your opinion of it? Any suggestions or advice on how to use it? Should I use other paint instead?
What type of primer do you coat the bare dash with prior to finish painting with Bob Drake's spray cans?
The factory appeared to paint deluxe dashes the sand color first, and then somehow mask the lower portion, before spraying on the maroon. What is the best way to do the masking, and get a good appearing edge?
How long should I wait for the sand color to dry before painting over it with the maroon? I have had some bad experiences in the past by spraying a second coat over one that is dried, and having the first coat wrinkle and lift!

I was looking to find an early take off dash, that came complete with all of the parts, and original paint with a "patina", but such dashes are getting rare and expensive... and so I think I am best off to simply restore one to display.

Thanks in advance,

push_rod
 
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In 1988 I used Bob Drakes 40 Ford DeLuxe dash paints when he sold them in pint cans. I think it was lacquer. I am assuming his spray cans are very good quality paint, but find out if it's enamel or lacquer. Then prime and sand your dash with epoxy primer and sealer that is compatible with the Drake paint. Sand with 400 grit wet dry and apply paint. I painted the top portion of the dash with Monadia Marron and let it dry for about a week. Then I taped off the curvy lower part of the dash with fine line tape and masking tape using non-porous paper and sprayed the other color. While paint was still tacky I gently "pulled" the tape so as not to have the paint "weld" itself to the tape.
Let it all dry nice and hard for about a week and then hand buffed it. Turned out real nice. Others may use different techniques. You might want to try painting a small piece of metal first to test your preparation and taping technique. Also, ask Drake what he recommends. Take your time and you will do fine.
 

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19Fordy:

Thank you for your response! Your car sure has a beautiful interior!
Years ago, before I decided to build my coupe into a "modified" street rod, my original plans were for a restored "resto-mod" with a 1950's flair. Back then I purchased several pint cans of the 1940 Deluxe dash paint, but I believe it was sold by Dennis Carpenter? (I could be wrong) It is still sitting on a shelf over at my parent's place. That paint is lacquer. Although I think I still have a gallon of lacquer primer, and a five gallon can of lacquer thinner, I am certain using such paint in my area is no longer "legal". When Bob Drake recently offered his spray cans, I figured it would be the best way to paint a dash for display. My neighbors are less likely to call the home owners association if I am seen using a spray can, versus me firing up the noisy air compressor and using my touch-up spray gun!

I also took your advice and emailed some questions to Bob Drake's technical service department. I will post whatever they send back as an answer.

Thanks again,

push_rod
 
19Fordy said:
In 1988 I used Bob Drakes 40 Ford DeLuxe dash paints when he sold them in pint cans. I think it was lacquer. I am assuming his spray cans are very good quality paint, but find out if it's enamel or lacquer. Then prime and sand your dash with epoxy primer and sealer that is compatible with the Drake paint. Sand with 400 grit wet dry and apply paint. I painted the top portion of the dash with Monadia Marron and let it dry for about a week. Then I taped off the curvy lower part of the dash with fine line tape and masking tape using non-porous paper and sprayed the other color. While paint was still tacky I gently "pulled" the tape so as not to have the paint "weld" itself to the tape.
Let it all dry nice and hard for about a week and then hand buffed it. Turned out real nice. Others may use different techniques. You might want to try painting a small piece of metal first to test your preparation and taping technique. Also, ask Drake what he recommends. Take your time and you will do fine.
Click to expand...

Good info
 
Drake's colors are not quite correct. The tan is too plain. By that I mean not enough metallic as authentic. The maroon he sells is much too "red'.
I am not certain how one might accomplish a quality painting of the instrument panel with spray cans.
 

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I have a deluxe dash that I believe to be original paint with out inst cluster for $500.00. If interest send me your email and I will email you pictures.
 
Push Rod
Rent from your industrial gas supplier a bottle of nitrogen.
Your oxygen regulator should work. No water or noise.
Bruce
 
Push Rod: My old 1970's DRAKE shows he sold pints of the dash paint for $20 each and also aerosol sprays cans for $20 each. Please let me know if you would sell me those paints if you don't use them. However, better yet, figure out a way to use that same lacquer paint and thinner to spray paint your dash. It comes out soooo nice.
 
27 years ago, when I was rebuilding my 40, I looked all over the country trying to find the correct color for the sand. I finally found a guy around Kansas City that worked for Ditzler, and mixed the paint using a NOS dash to match the paint. He told me to be sure and use Red Oxide Primer or the color would not come out right. This paint was so thin that it took the whole quart just to do the dash, but I am totally pleased with the way it came out. Rich looking and way better than Drake's sand color. I did use Drake's spray can for my steering wheel though, as I had no paint left after the dash was done. I also had a bodyman friend paint my dash. If I remember right, I had him clear coat the dash to help protect it. To me, the 40 Deluxe dash is really beautiful.
Sorry I don't remember the guy's name that mixed my paint, but I'm sure there are guys out there now that have done as good or better at matching the right color. I used to have the mixing formula, but it was for some old paint company that was long gone, and nobody could do anything with it.
Dave
 
My 2 cents.
Any good Auto parts store that mixes paint can put it in a spray can.
I would be surprised if Drakes was Lacquer.
If you use a rattles can your paint will not have any hardener in it and the UV protection is in question,but since this is for display only that shouldn't be an issue.
Great paint jobs are as much if not more about the prep as it is about the shooting the color.
And as advised pull the tape once the paint has tacked but not dried. You will get a cleaner line that way.
Good luck. Have fun, and go for it....
Torchie.
 
Toyed around with a dash I have on the shelf. Rustoleum rattle can. Kona Brown and Champagne Metallic. A work in progress...

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Gee, that looks good.
Time for the quiz.
Where did you get the paint?
Did you use spray cans or spray gun?
What kind of paint?
 
PushRod......

I bought and used the Maroon for my '40 Std. and it was not exactly the same as original, but came damn close to it. I used it in several places with dark rust colored prime. Three coats and a light sand & rub out after each coat. It turned out pretty good, but I'm a driver and not a show car !

Mike42
 
deuce_roadster said:
Isn't the 40 V8 (aka standard) supposed to be Briarwood Brown on the entire dash?
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A rhetorical question I am certain...:)
Picture attached is over exposed and makes this dash appear too red. It is in fact Brairwood Brown. At minimum, I think guys will see what the "standard" dash is supposed to look like when properly restored.
Oh, one more thing... the welt that goes between the instrument panel and window moldings is supposed to match the color of the panel. This applies to both the deluxe and Ford V8 models.
 

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Kube; Love that interior. I never saw those heater knob instructions on your heater before.
Was that put on the heater at time of original purchase? Thanks for sharing your expertise, as always.
 
19Fordy said:
Kube; Love that interior. I never saw those heater knob instructions on your heater before.
Was that put on the heater at time of original purchase? Thanks for sharing your expertise, as always.
Click to expand...
Jim, The heaters were supposed to have that card installed when the car was delivered. I doubt that happened all the time :)

There were a few pieces that were supposed to be attached to the instrument panel. That orange, black & white card on the light switch was supposed to be hung in every car. Also, a red card around the antenna (when radio equipped).
Hot air heater also had a tag.

Not certain if there was an accessories brochure placed in the glove box. In 1939 every car delivered was supposed to have that brochure in the box. i can't find any document that clarifies whether or not that practice continued in to 1940.

Hey, of all the deluxe dashes I have seen, yours appears to be the closest to authentic. Ya know I'm proud of ya!!!!
 
Yes Briarwood Brown is what I bought from Drake. I didn't mean Maroon ! The whole dash is Briarwood.

Mike
 
I've seen custom paint jobs on motorcycle fuel tanks that were entirely sprayed from a rattle can. I've always noticed that the paint from rattle cans is usually not thinned the same as a person can do with a spray gun. It has a tendency to have more of a pebbly or light orange peel sexture that can be attained from a gun shot paint job. The folks that use the canned stuff generally color sand after it is completely dry then spray the clear coat. The clear coat generally is a bit thinner in the rattle cans and gives an acceptable finish. Most rattle can stuff is either acrylic laquer or acrylic enamel these days. The days of nitro celulose laquer are long gone for the automotive paint industry. It is really hard to find the old stuff now but a few companies still dable in it for restoration work.

A lot of dashes I've worked on needed some prime & sand to smooth over rust pits. I still use zinc chromate to stop the corrosion then I use a polyurethane fill & sand primer now that works pretty well and is more compatible with single stage paints. Since Axalta took over Dupont, I've been experimenting with their stuff and some is good & some is a pain. Paints now sure ain't what they used to be. The stuff has nearly doubled in price too. Just finding a paint shop that can mix up decent quality single stage polyurethane paints is getting harder to do.
 
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