How to remove Quail Radiator Cap

S

Steve_KS

Member
This is a dumb question but how do you remove the quail radiator cap from the car. It was on my car when I got it. I assumed a quarter turn then lift off like a normal radiator cap but it didn't come off easily and I don't want to scratch or bend something. My searches haven't turned up anything conclusive.

To open my quail I have to firmly grasp the bottom to keep it from turning then turn the bird on top 1/8 of a turn then it hinges open.

Thanks
 
jwilliams81 said:
When you open the top half, look inside, there should be two allen head screws. Those have tabs attached to them that hold the bottom half of the hinge on. Loosen those screws and you should be able to separate from the radiator. The link below shows the underside. You can see how the two screws work.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Content/uploads/radiatorneckfix-10297.pdf

Here is another thread about it as well:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197164
Click to expand...


A word of caution re above...loosen but do not completely remove the allen screws - if you do, the tabs can fall into the radiator.
 
All good suggestions from the guys above.. Do NOT loosen the set screws inside the cap all the way if 30/31. loosen ( and OK to remove if desired) the back set screw on the outside of the cap if it is a 28/29. If you try to take the cap off with the set screw snugged you will be getting your radiator neck repaired.

Larry Shepard
 
Thanks all for the advise. I'm pretty sure my quail is a reproduction. I'll take a look at it now that I have some better ideas and if still stumped post some pictures.

Thanks Again,
Steve
 
Steve_KS said:
This is a dumb question but how do you remove the quail radiator cap from the car. It was on my car when I got it. I assumed a quarter turn then lift off like a normal radiator cap but it didn't come off easily and I don't want to scratch or bend something. My searches haven't turned up anything conclusive.

To open my quail I have to firmly grasp the bottom to keep it from turning then turn the bird on top 1/8 of a turn then it hinges open.

Thanks
Click to expand...

No questions are dumb! Just some are easier to answer! These aftermarket pot metal caps are flip open types that are held in place by a plate inside the the fill port of the radiator, and they can be nasty to loosen to remove! But that is it, you will need an allen wrench. These pot metal caps, are just not made to last. There is another Thread on the Model A Forum of how to replace this Pot metal cap, and a lot of other ideas from Forum members. Search on "Motometer Radiator cap for 1930 Model A". Or you can just go buy another cap, or go back to just a stainless cap! Up to you!
 
DHZIEMAN said:
No questions are dumb! Just some are easier to answer! These aftermarket pot metal caps are flip open types that are held in place by a plate inside the the fill port of the radiator, and they can be nasty to loosen to remove! But that is it, you will need an allen wrench. These pot metal caps, are just not made to last. There is another Thread on the Model A Forum of how to replace this Pot metal cap, and a lot of other ideas from Forum members. Search on "Motometer Radiator cap for 1930 Model A". Or you can just go buy another cap, or go back to just a stainless cap! Up to you!
Click to expand...


The only quail I ever had was a 30-31 repro 40+ years ago. It was pot metal and certainly not the quality of an original, but not bad - dunno if it was better than current caps. It attached with the two screws and tabs as described above. It was a flip open and the only problem was the gasket between the halves wasn't thick enough, so the top half rattled - a rubber O-ring from the hardware store took care of that.
 
CHuDWah said:
The only quail I ever had was a 30-31 repro 40+ years ago. It was pot metal and certainly not the quality of an original, but not bad - dunno if it was better than current caps. It attached with the two screws and tabs as described above. It was a flip open and the only problem was the gasket between the halves wasn't thick enough, so the top half rattled - a rubber O-ring from the hardware store took care of that.
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Be happy you had a decent cap from 40 years ago! Those kind of caps today, just to start with, have an instruction in the kit to grind part of the cap off to make it fit some cars. Grinding off the chrome on pot metal exposes that metal to moisture and then the dielectric action starts and they corrode! Again, be happy you purchased something decent!
 
DHZIEMAN said:
Be happy you had a decent cap from 40 years ago! Those kind of caps today, just to start with, have an instruction in the kit to grind part of the cap off to make it fit some cars. Grinding off the chrome on pot metal exposes that metal to moisture and then the dielectric action starts and they corrode! Again, be happy you purchased something decent!
Click to expand...

That is how you FIX a Brand New Reproduction part that is still being made and sold that way..
 
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