How to remove old rubber from running boards

1934

1934

Senior Member
I would like to re-cover the running boards on my '34. What's the best way to remove the old rubber? Any tips would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Doug.
 
The problem I found was that the rubber was so brittle and so well stuck to the running boards that I wasn’t able to heat it and remove it. I removed the rubber from my 1940 Fordor boards using a chisel and hammer. I had the boards off the the car and clamped to the workbench. Caution: the little pieces of old rubber go everywhere and safety glasses were required. I’m still finding pieces in corners of the shop two years later. I hope someone else will have an easier solution for you.
 
I agree with deuce lover the propane torch will soften the bond of the old rubber to the metal board.
 
Thanks for the responses, guys. I'm getting most of it off with the hammer and chisel and any rubber left should come off with the propane torch. And HDowse, you're right about the safety glasses!
Doug.
 
Pneumatic gasket scraper from Snap on tools. Part # pgs 1
 

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heat gun and sharp scraper then buff with rotary brush on 4/5"grinder makes a mess but gets you back to bare metal so you can work all the small waves out [if you dont they show thru big time ] didnt worry the originals as they where vulcanised in a mould
 
Mineral spirits will soften about any kind of rubber. I use it to remove heavy coatings of RTV. Finding a way to soak it can be challenging though.
 
I just heated the back of the bumper with a torch and peeled the loosened rubber off the top with a putty knife. Then sent them out to be blasted.
 
I have always used an acetylene / oxygen torch on the back of the board. It didn't take long to acquire a feel for how long to hold the torch in one place. Using a stiff putty knife on the front, the rubber peels off easily.
 
rotorwrench said:
Mineral spirits will soften about any kind of rubber. I use it to remove heavy coatings of RTV. Finding a way to soak it can be challenging though.
Click to expand...

I've done it this way. Used a paint brush to brush on the mineral spirits. Let soak. I then used a stiff putty knife to start peeling the rubber off.
 
Kube said:
I have always used an acetylene / oxygen torch on the back of the board. It didn't take long to acquire a feel for how long to hold the torch in one place. Using a stiff putty knife on the front, the rubber peels off easily.
Click to expand...

Same here, helps to have a helper and do it outside. Heat with the torch, flip, scrape, repeat. Goes pretty fast.
 
I pulled a '40 coupe out of a field in Tennessee last week. It's amazing how decades of sun and rain cleans a running board of all rubber. All this with no labor at all! However, this technique also, labor free, installs dozens of ventilation holes in the floor and other parts of the car. All in all, I would recommend the other solutions on this thread.
 
There is an article in an old Peterson Publication (complete Ford Book edition 3) where they suggested heating up charcoal briquettes, laying them on the ground and putting the boards over them (rubber face up) and this allows the vulcanising to soften and the old covers lift right off......60's, 70's technology no doubt.

GB
 
I refinished a set on a '36 and took the time to "Bondo" them flat with no dips around the weld areas specially so the low spots didn't pop through the new vinyl. I had bought a new set of Bob Drakes and left them in the box for years and installed them on another car only to see small craters around the weld areas for the frame mounting brackets. The vinyl recovers actually looked better!
 
Many years ago I worked with a chap here in NZ who had a 200 gallon tank that was filled with a strong degreasing agent.
If you put a running board in and left it overnight the rubber was gone in the morning.
No affect on the steel.
 
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