How to prime the flatty

Mart said:
Ok, call me a botch artist, but I just tip a bit of gas straight down the carb. It'll fire and run. It will go for a few seconds and after you've done it a few times it will have pulled the fuel through and run on it's own.

One precaution, though, don't stand over the carb with a jug of gas, tip a bit in, go and put it down a little way away from the car and crank it over. Repeat as necessary.

Mart.
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Yep ,that's what I do :cool:
 
I have used WD40 also. It's propellant is propane so it will not flood the carb and it also has a lube ingredient so it will help to replace any oil on the cylinder walls that has washed away until they can get splashed again.
 
Cool Hand has the answer! Learned the same trick from a small engine guy years ago. Snowblowers can have a tough time when it is real cold and that engine hasn't been run lately.
 
I would avoid putting my hand over the carb while cranking the engine. I have an acquaintance who did just that, there was a backfire through the carb which sent a throttle plate completely through his hand.
 
Has anyone ever installed a aircraft style hand primer instead of a free flow electric pump for the purpose of priming when the lines are dry?
 
Hi Everyone,

If I leave the car sit for more than two weeks I have to prime it. If driven in the last two weeks it will start on the first crank.

21 Stud, For priming I use a sealed container I got at the camping store for hikers to travel with stove fuel. It's got a locking screw-on cap, and doesn't freak me out to keep it in the car 2/3 full of fuel (never full, harder to pour). It holds about two cups.

I remove the air cleaner and pour about a shot worth down the carb. Cap the can and set it 5 feet away.

Hop in, turn on the ignition, give 1/2 inch of choke, and hit the starter, then smile. When she fires I reduce the choke to about 1/4 inch. I give it just a little touch of hand throttle, then get out and replace the air cleaner, lower the hood, and retrieve the fuel bottle.

It works pretty reliably for this engine.

Other techniques tend to flood this engine.

That's the way my Dad taught me.

Just my 2 cents to answer the original post.
 
I have a "Dollar Store" plastic ketchup dispenser (with a cap for the spout) half full of gas. You can use it to shoot gas down the carb vent to fill the flost bowl or squirt a little directly into the carb. Originally, I was afraid that the gas would desolve the plastic and emptied it after every use. I eventually got lazy and left it full of gas. Sorprisingly (to me), leaving the gas in it has produced no ill effects.
 
I agree with 36tbird. When replacing the intake, or the fuel pump, make sure the push rod is still a match and isn't installed upside down. This will cause a mismatch and prevent fuel from getting thru fuel pump.
 
Pull the choke out,pump it up,hit the starter! If it doesn't start, you have an ignition problem, or a carborator problem.
 
Snouts out said:
Pull the choke out,pump it up,hit the starter! If it doesn't start, you have an ignition problem, or a carborator problem.
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And remember, most ignition problems are carburetor related, and most carburetor problems are usually cause by defective points, condensor, or coil.:D
 
Learned to always replace air cleaner when starting car, you can get a pretty good flame going if there is a backfire. The aircleaner contains and supresses any potential flame
 
40Ford!! said:
I just replaced my intake and I'm not getting the fuel to draw. I'm quite sure the fuel pump is on properly and the fuel line is not plugged. I blew air from the fuel line up front and there was definitely fuel in the tank. I blew air from the rear and I could not get any fuel to push thru. My next effort will be to add some fuel into the carb and get it to fire. How much can I add directly into the carb? Any other suggestions? Thanks
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Are you saying you changed to a different intake manifold? If so, what did you change from and what did you change to? Some manifolds are higher than others where the fuel pump stand bolts on, requiring different length fuel pump push rods. You could have a situation where your fuel pump rod is too short to engage the fuel pump arm that makes the pump work.
Another possibility is when you installed the FP you may not have gotten the cup on the arm on top of the FP push rod.
In either case the FP will not work. Just some thoughts.
 
Hi Everyone, I recently learned from some smarter guys that when installing my fuel pump, remove the stand, put the pump on the stand, and put the stand on the intake. Makes it easier and more likely you'll get that cup on the rod.
 
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