how to polish brass
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Willie in Houston
Senior Member
Brasso is a good polish, but it starts tarnishing as soon as you finish polishing.
I have not used it in many years, maybe the new version is better??????
I find that "Mothers" polish does a good job and leaves a coating that stops tarnish for some months. "Mothers" polish is available in a lot of auto parts stores.
If you have some very heavy tarnish, some very fine steel wool can be helpful, but do not use a coarse steel wool as it will do a lot of scratches on the brass. A tooth brush can be helpful to remove the excess polish out of the joints and cracks.
I have not used it in many years, maybe the new version is better??????
I find that "Mothers" polish does a good job and leaves a coating that stops tarnish for some months. "Mothers" polish is available in a lot of auto parts stores.
If you have some very heavy tarnish, some very fine steel wool can be helpful, but do not use a coarse steel wool as it will do a lot of scratches on the brass. A tooth brush can be helpful to remove the excess polish out of the joints and cracks.
Jack Innes
Well-known member
Brasso does work well but it is abrasive. It has been often used as a final rubbing compound on really fine paint jobs. It will eventually destroy the fine details of the object.
The only cleaner considered safe on brass by most conservation institutes is Nevr-dull. It works well but is a little labour intensive. It does leave an oil like film on the brass that helps slow tarnishing.
The only cleaner considered safe on brass by most conservation institutes is Nevr-dull. It works well but is a little labour intensive. It does leave an oil like film on the brass that helps slow tarnishing.
Kohnke Rebabbitting
Well-known member
Jack is right, if you want to ruin a polished surface, use Brasso.
We use Flitz Metal Polish, no abrasive, and it leaves a protective coating.
Many street Roders use it.
I for got to say, never use anything made out of wood as a polishing cloth, even on your Glasses.
Always use 100% cotton!, like old clean T-Shirts.
We use Flitz Metal Polish, no abrasive, and it leaves a protective coating.
Many street Roders use it.
I for got to say, never use anything made out of wood as a polishing cloth, even on your Glasses.
Always use 100% cotton!, like old clean T-Shirts.
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yachtsmanbill
Well-known member
Use the Brasso to kill the weeds... Nev-R-Dull is the best by far. I wish they sold the compound for it for a slow wheel. I use it exclusivelly on boat stuff especially chromed brass thats' leached through and turned green. +++++ <-- thats 5 stars! ws
dumb person
Well-known member
If money is no object you could gold plate it and it would stay shiny longer. Not that many people can afford gold nowdays.
Wood? or wool?
Wood? or wool?
yachtsmanbill
Well-known member
Gotta love ol' Herm, but he types with two 4 pound hammers! Great guy tho... glad to see you here Herm instead of that other place where they beat you up all the time! ws
Jack Innes
Well-known member
Flitz is another good polish but it is slightly abrasive. Probably not enough to cause brass deterioration for a long time but it is thought that it can be harmful in cleaning gun bores & items that cannot afford to be eroded. In the museum conservation field it is considered abrasive. The abrasive in Flitz is Aluminum Oxide, the same stuff used to make sand paper.
Here is an official statement on Flitz from the president of the company to a gunsmith; "" The gentleman that stated "if it is a polish, it has to be abrasive" is right in a very literal sense. However, you are also right about the Flitz, because our polish falls 12% below the government standard for abrasiveness. In other words, the polishing granules are so fine that Flitz can be considered non-abrasive. We can safely claim that because, as you can feel just by putting it between your fingers, it is very smooth. Flitz can be used on even the softest precious metals without scratching. (Of course, a person would have to consider the applicator cloth and make sure they are using a clean, high-quality, soft cloth to apply the polish and for buffing.)""
Here is an official statement on Flitz from the president of the company to a gunsmith; "" The gentleman that stated "if it is a polish, it has to be abrasive" is right in a very literal sense. However, you are also right about the Flitz, because our polish falls 12% below the government standard for abrasiveness. In other words, the polishing granules are so fine that Flitz can be considered non-abrasive. We can safely claim that because, as you can feel just by putting it between your fingers, it is very smooth. Flitz can be used on even the softest precious metals without scratching. (Of course, a person would have to consider the applicator cloth and make sure they are using a clean, high-quality, soft cloth to apply the polish and for buffing.)""
I've used for brass, (that has already been high speed wheel buffed to a bright surface) both Nev-R-Dull and Mothers. They can work, but by far the best for keeping the bright surface shiny and tarnish free is Cape Cod. This polish is in little cloth pads, making it easy to use. Darn good on brass!
Learned about Cape Cod from a T'er who has a mulitiple best in class blue ribbon T.
http://www.capecodpolish.com/produc...ducts_id=28&osCsid=p99dh4st0bm19418fl3ve2p201
Learned about Cape Cod from a T'er who has a mulitiple best in class blue ribbon T.
http://www.capecodpolish.com/produc...ducts_id=28&osCsid=p99dh4st0bm19418fl3ve2p201
Used lotsa Brasso while doing 4 years in the Army, and found it produced a highly polished brass, in short order, however it does scratch, and close observation reveals same. Everyone used it, so I'm guessing that the Army got it "on the cheap"
Presently using Wenol to restore the sidelights & taillight on my 14 Touring. I'm applying it with a nylon brush in a dremel, and the tarnish (probably 80+ years worth) combines with the Wenol, and dries on. This can be removed with a damp cloth and elbo grease. Final polish application is done with a cloth applicator. Excellent results !
Presently using Wenol to restore the sidelights & taillight on my 14 Touring. I'm applying it with a nylon brush in a dremel, and the tarnish (probably 80+ years worth) combines with the Wenol, and dries on. This can be removed with a damp cloth and elbo grease. Final polish application is done with a cloth applicator. Excellent results !
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
After applying Mothers/Wenol/Nev-R-Dull/etc. and rubbing it off, consider using Talcum powder poured into an old sock and rubbed onto the cleaned surface. The powder absorbs the black residue and will make the polished brass surface brighter. I have been instructed by my plater (who told me of this powder method) that compounds and polishes have greases which hold the cleaners into solution, and the black is the after-effect of the greases. He claims the grease absorb dirt and cause scratches & dulling. Maybe the grease protects from oxidation???
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Stretch Cab
Well-known member
Lots of great info here. I have a brass radiator cover, steering column and steering gear box that haven't been touched since the early 60's so I'm wondering if any of the above would cut through the tarnish that is there? I was thinking of a buffing wheel and buffing paste but if I could start with Brasso and end with one of the other products I would be glad to give that a try too.
Willie Krash
Well-known member
I for one like the look of old brass patina. I polished a brass phonograph horn and every imperfection leaped out at me. 25 years later lookin good again.
A personal preference to be sure, that and I'm lazy.
A personal preference to be sure, that and I'm lazy.
Steve Rinaldo
Member
Horseless Carriage Club did a test of over 50 polish types a few years back. The best was Winchester Arms Brass Polish and if I remember right, Mothers was rated 2or 3. You might be able to find this article at HCCA.org.