How to Mount Engine on Stand from Rear

mjr67

Junior Member
I have a question about engine stands.. I'd like to attach my short block from the rear of the engine using the bolt holes in the block for the flywheel housing instead of using a adapter plate and attaching from the water inlet as commonly shown...

If anyone has a picture of how the engine stand mounts to the rear of the engine I would appreciate seeing them... I picked up a stand and am having trouble finding a good way to mount the arms to the rear bolt holes...
Would anyone have any pics of this..?

Thanks to all,
 
i dont have a pic but did it using long bolts with a series of spacers, but as others will mention its easier to work on things with the side mount
 
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It's worth it to make or buy the side adaptor. You can do so much more work and checks with the block mounted on the side.
 
I have a question about engine stands.. I'd like to attach my short block from the rear of the engine using the bolt holes in the block for the flywheel housing instead of using a adapter plate and attaching from the water inlet as commonly shown...

If anyone has a picture of how the engine stand mounts to the rear of the engine I would appreciate seeing them... I picked up a stand and am having trouble finding a good way to mount the arms to the rear bolt holes...
Would anyone have any pics of this..?

Thanks to all,

Here is one that shows some of the mounting.
 

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I been doing it as illustrated by Jthomas6 for years without any problems. In fact I have a engine stored like that for a numbe of year. May not e the best but worked for me.
 
I have done it both ways. From the rear and from the side. Couple of pros and cons. Side mount lets you mount Flywheel Housing and Flywheel, but makes getting to Center Main bolt difficult. Rear End Mount prevents the mounting of the Flywheel Housing and Flywheel, but you can get to the Main Bolts. I would not mount ot the "cheezy" flywheel Housing. Too easy to crack.
 
I been doing it as illustrated by Jthomas6 for years without any problems. In fact I have a engine stored like that for a numbe of year. May not e the best but worked for me.

Either you were lucky or you don't know how to check them for cracks.
 
tbird, I will address that problem next engine next engine I work on a stand. The current engine I am working on - the blown piston- is just laying on its side on a steel work table. Not the best senerio.
 
I have no problem getting to the center main bolt when I use the engine stand adapter that Bill Stipe makes (and is available at most vendors)
 

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Or you could just make one like I did, for a fraction of the cost.
 

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I have attached a few photos of the engine stand adapters I use. I greatly prefer for engine break-down and assembly to use the adapter that holds the engine from the rear. The rear mount adapter allows for much easier access to the internals of the engine for all portions of the assembly. Once assembled, I change the engine over to a side mount to allow the mounting and truing of the flywheel housing and flywheel. This change over only takes 3 minutes with a chain hoist. I also prefer a single wheel at the center of the engine stand. Some say it is a bit "tippy", I do not find it to be. I have two stands with a wider setting of two wheels under the center of the engine and I find my self constantly tripping over the extra width of these stands and they are the least used stands in my shop.
Note that I have permanently welded the spacers and arms of the adapter to the main plate to provide a more ridged assembly and to have repeatability in the setup. I use the top two holes in the block that hold the two ears on the flywheel housing and the two lowest holes near the panrail. All of these holes require a 7/16" NC bolt. Your spacer length will dictate the length of bolt required. For safety, make sure you have about 1/2" engagement of bolt into the block.
I build about 25 engines each year and break-down quite a few more. I am stating what works best for me. JMO.
Good Day!

www.durableperformance.net

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