How to lower the A.

'32-'34 have the same contour, '35 and later have the wider spring perches as you noted. '32 had both the std. and heavy axles. Good luck.

1932-36 axles are the same dimensionally (same widths and hole locations) and are totally interchangeable (as someone noted earlier). There was only ONE 1932 axle and it has a thicker profile, thus the often used "heavy" nomenclature. The 1933 axles (at least some of them) have a thicker profile in the center section between the wishbone holes. 1934-36 axles are identical - the difference in spring mounting for 1935-36 is a factor of the wishbones only. All these axles are 1/4" thinner at the wishbone attaching holes and a spacer must be used when using them in conjunction with Model A wishbones. All but the 1932 axles are reasonably priced and should be easy located.
 
Hi wensum, I have a '32 axle and perches plus '32 stub axles (spindles) but these have had the arms heated and bent slightly for another set-up. I'm told we are not allowed to heat and bend here in NZ?. Having trouble finding another set of RHD '32 stub axles.
What did you end up using? I'm keeping the rod brakes.
 
Hi wensum, I have a '32 axle and perches plus '32 stub axles (spindles) but these have had the arms heated and bent slightly for another set-up. I'm told we are not allowed to heat and bend here in NZ?. Having trouble finding another set of RHD '32 stub axles.
What did you end up using? I'm keeping the rod brakes.



I've still got the standard Model A stub axles brakes etc., the only thing required was a spacer machined up for the small difference in the depth of the axle at the radius arms which I guess you must have done also?
Cast iron drums and all brake components re-bushed or replaced have given excellent brakes. Heating and bending may not be legal, but done by an expert should be safe?
 
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