How to Lift the Engine?

Brobrian

Brobrian

Senior Member
I know I've seen a threat on this somewhere, but I can't find it. How should I attach the hoist to the engine when pulling it? Andrews suggests a couple of those specially threaded bolts that go into the spark plug holes and then a piece of angle iron. I like that, but the bolts cost $31 each at Snyders and would require two. One single ring fitted to screw into the spark plug is $11 each. Sounds good, as long as one is strong enough.

Anyway, what do you do?
 
one eyebolt is enough, if the trans is attached then use the # 3 hole, if not then the # 2 hole will work.
 
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Also can use some 2" Nylon straps wraped around engine. Front and rear.
 

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I gave up on trying to lift engines with bolts and screws and plates and such a long time ago.
I invested in a pair of 2000 lb Web sling that fit anything I want to lift. (About $50)
Engine-Under pulley and under rear main or pan.
With ******-under pull and ******.
Also works with lifting bodies and chassis.
 
take junk spark plug, brake the guts out of it. Weld the spark plug to something you can hook your hoist to. Screw the piece in the spark plug hole, and your on your way to pulling the engine.
 
If you want something to screw into plug holes, buy two of the cheap (~$3) Motorcraft TT10 spark plugs and knock out the porcelain. Put 3/8 grade 5 bolts through them as attachment points. Minimum tensile on ONE 3/8 grade 5 bolt (USA, not Chinese!!) exceeds 5000 lbs.

I always use a screw-crank tilt device to make it safe and easy to get the engine pan over the front member (engine tilted up) and then tilted back to get the exact mating level for the clutch cover casting and front mount. It all then goes in with a wiggle. In this pix I am using the plug hole studs that came with a head puller.
DSCF0035.jpg
 
1967 Ford said:
Mike K

I always have a hard time knocking out the porcelain on plugs. Do you have some
special technique?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Screw it in an old head to hold it. Break off what you can, both ends. Then a couple good whacks each way with a 1/4" drift punch and 2lb hammer on the remaining porcelain stub does the trick.
 
Cool, Gentlemen, just what I needed.
I just went out and wrapped a tow strap around the front pulley and rear flange on the new engine to test it. Very easy, plenty strong. Can't tilt it very easily, but we'll see how it goes this week when I pull the old engine out.

Thanks
 
chain sling from water inlet bolt to manifold bolt works, too. Although I usually lift from #3 or #2 plug hole as already mentioned. This is how the old timers did it all the time
 
I use one of Bill Stipe's creations available at most vendors:
 

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I did what Gunmetal Blue2 did, except I used 2 take apart junk sparkplugs and removed everything except the screw in the head part. I then used two 3/8" carriage bolts that I inserted it from the bottom and then used a short chain and a washer/nut attaching the chain to the carriage bolts. I screw in the sparkplug/carriage bolts into #1 and #4 locations. I have removed several engines with this setup and have had no problems.
Rusty Nelson
 
I've used 3 different ways to lift the engine. The equalizer that Mike showed is tops, but using 2 spark plug hole adaptors or using nylon braided rope both work great also. I've also used seat belts to sling the engine.

If you sling the engine side to side, instead of front to rear, it will be much easier to tilt it during installation.
 

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I use a cable lift that fits on the head bolts. You can adjust the lift point along the cable. I have been using this for many years. It is what we used in my Dads repair garage. We use to rebuild all kinds of engines.
 
I discovered a neat way to remove the porcelain from spark plugs while restoring a WWII Flying Wing engine at the restoration shop of the San Diego auto museum. Chuck the plug base in the lathe and turn the rolled over top edge of the metal body that encloses the porcelain electrode, it will then slide right out with a hammer tap.
 
I took two old plugs, broke the Porcelain out welded two 1/2" threaded studs in and used the angle iron with four or five holes in line to balance the engine. Works great.

Imacrazy
 
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