How to lift a Y block

1930artdeco

1930artdeco

Well-known member
Right now I am hoisting the engine using both engine mount bolts on either side. Is there a better/safer/more efficient way-or am I still good? I just don't want to put pressure on the manifolds that may brake an ear off.

Mike
 
Sounds like a good way to get it to flip over.. Top-heavy. I always lifted them with a chain across intake bolts. Right sized chain will fit intake studs closest to carb front. Tighten nuts on the studs down all the way back to intake torque levels or close to it with heavy washers, or just reverse the intake hold down cups above the chain on those studs so they don't accidently bend.
 
Brushwolf, I was wondering about those bolts. I just wasn’t sure I had the length to hold the chain down. So I will adjust the chain to them. When I go to move it to the stand next week I will take the intake off so it will be easier to move.

Thanks,

Mike
 
FWIW. Ford supplied dealers with a lifting device back in the day. Basically it had a claw type attachment for each side, attached to 2 short chains to a flat bar you hooked to a chain fall or cherry picker. You just hooked the claws to the exhaust manifolds and lifted it out. Engine always came out straight and never had to worry about how it was balanced. Haven't seen one in 40yrs.
 
I have lifted just about every V8 from a 60 hp flathead to 426 hemis with the above mentioned carb lift plate. Most guys just build their own, but you can buy them from Speedway, Jegs, Summit, etc.
 
1930artdeco said:
Brushwolf, I was wondering about those bolts. I just wasn’t sure I had the length to hold the chain down. So I will adjust the chain to them. When I go to move it to the stand next week I will take the intake off so it will be easier to move.

Thanks,

Mike
Click to expand...

Reversing those hold down steel cups will give you enough length with the manifold in place and leaving the intake on will probably decrease the likelihood of bending the studs, though they are pretty sturdy to start with,
 
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I always lifted engines with chain attached to front int. one one side and rear intake on other. I substitute manifold bolts with longer allen cap bolts and heavy washers.
 
For the two I've done a lift plate on the carb flange worked fine, even with the transmission attached.
The adjustable lift brackets with variable tilt are much easier to use.
 

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Thanks guys. I was able to lift the engine easier with reversing the cups on the intake. Did my compression check and there is something wrong. I just need to figure out what-new thread coming…. But when I do go install the engine I am going to get one of those adjusters to make life a lot easier.

Mike
 
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