Allen Rider
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This seems to be a secret
How to install window channel 29 tudor sedan
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Allen Rider
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Don Turley
Well-known member
Are you talking about the metal channel on the bottom of the glass? Or the felt channel that the glass slides in?
If you are talking about the felt channels, which ones are you having trouble with? Door or rear quarter?
Note: Allen responded by email to me that it is the door felt channels.
The Tudor has a metal cap on the top of the door, held on by three screws. You have to remove that metal cap in order to replace the felt channels. You will also need to remove the interior door panel, the window riser mechanism and the glass. Raise the glass to the "up" position, remove the three mounting screws holding the riser mechanism in place, then work the knob on the arm of the riser mechanism to the end of the metal channel on the bottom of the glass and remove it. You should now be able to lift the glass out through the top of the door.
Original style felt channels have a hook type tab that hooks into place near the top of the door. At the bottom of the felt channel should be a "T" shaped tab that slips into a slot. There were no other fasteners between the top and bottom. If they are loose fitting, you might want to consider using some contact cement. The length of the felt channels should reach to the bottom of metal channels in the door where they fit. If they go below that, then they are longer than they need to be.
Other body styles, such as the wood bodied Fordors, have felt channels that attach by other methods. My description above applies to doors that are all metal, such as Tudors and Coupes. I've restored at least 10 Model A's with this style door and all of them were this way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aermotor
burner31, You have your signs on the wrong channels, the flat one goes on top and the hooked one on the bottom - at least on the rear window and I thought on the door windows also. ---John
The hooks are at the top and the "T" tabs are at the bottom. That is true for the doors and the rear quarter windows in a Tudor. If you did it opposite, then you have them installed incorrectly. However, if somehow you have them installed incorrectly and the window works, then I would suggest that you leave it.
If you are talking about the felt channels, which ones are you having trouble with? Door or rear quarter?
Note: Allen responded by email to me that it is the door felt channels.
The Tudor has a metal cap on the top of the door, held on by three screws. You have to remove that metal cap in order to replace the felt channels. You will also need to remove the interior door panel, the window riser mechanism and the glass. Raise the glass to the "up" position, remove the three mounting screws holding the riser mechanism in place, then work the knob on the arm of the riser mechanism to the end of the metal channel on the bottom of the glass and remove it. You should now be able to lift the glass out through the top of the door.
Original style felt channels have a hook type tab that hooks into place near the top of the door. At the bottom of the felt channel should be a "T" shaped tab that slips into a slot. There were no other fasteners between the top and bottom. If they are loose fitting, you might want to consider using some contact cement. The length of the felt channels should reach to the bottom of metal channels in the door where they fit. If they go below that, then they are longer than they need to be.
Other body styles, such as the wood bodied Fordors, have felt channels that attach by other methods. My description above applies to doors that are all metal, such as Tudors and Coupes. I've restored at least 10 Model A's with this style door and all of them were this way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aermotor
burner31, You have your signs on the wrong channels, the flat one goes on top and the hooked one on the bottom - at least on the rear window and I thought on the door windows also. ---John
The hooks are at the top and the "T" tabs are at the bottom. That is true for the doors and the rear quarter windows in a Tudor. If you did it opposite, then you have them installed incorrectly. However, if somehow you have them installed incorrectly and the window works, then I would suggest that you leave it.
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Allen Rider
New member
The new felts seem to be to long do I need to shorten them, you hook one end the other just flop around
burner31
Well-known member
There should be a slot on the bottom it hooks into.
Do you have the right channels for the year/model?
You can have different length channels for the front/back of window.
Look closely, channels can be 1/4'' difference between them, measure carefully, they can look the same...but are not.
Do you have the right channels for the year/model?
You can have different length channels for the front/back of window.
Look closely, channels can be 1/4'' difference between them, measure carefully, they can look the same...but are not.
pgerhardt
Well-known member
I am in the process of restoring the doors on my 29 tudor right now. Removing the old channels showed me how the new ones are installed. It was not very hard. The channels in the door kit sold by Bratton's fit perfectly.
Hear is one correction/tip. There is no need to remove the window riser assembly. With the "door cap" off crank the window higher than it would normally go and it will come free of the riser arm and you and slip the window right out to change the channels.
Hear is one correction/tip. There is no need to remove the window riser assembly. With the "door cap" off crank the window higher than it would normally go and it will come free of the riser arm and you and slip the window right out to change the channels.
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Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I bought window channels for a 29 Tudor about 20 years ago from Bratton's. I bought both kits, one with the hooks already riveted in place, and one where I had to do the riveting. I thought the kits would be the same, except for the riveted hooks, but they weren't. The riveted ones were better quality, and the way to go.
Steve Plucker
BANNED
Also, one must remember that those with the clips on them, the rubber channel for which the felt is sewed to was originally "streachable". So when the upper hook was fixed, it was then streached in place thus attaching the lower hook.
Most reproductions that I have seen in the past are a very rigid channel with felt on it and will not streach into place unless they are making the streachable now.
I made my own back in 1980 when I restored my 1929 Coupe which would of took the same type of channel as the Tudor...the streachable kind.
I got the right size black tubing and the right size channel, took the tubing to a seamstress and they sewed the tubes onto the felt then sewed the felt with tubing onto the rubber channel. I then attached the two clips to the rubber channel with the correct type rivets and put the channels into the doors as Don described.
Pluck
Most reproductions that I have seen in the past are a very rigid channel with felt on it and will not streach into place unless they are making the streachable now.
I made my own back in 1980 when I restored my 1929 Coupe which would of took the same type of channel as the Tudor...the streachable kind.
I got the right size black tubing and the right size channel, took the tubing to a seamstress and they sewed the tubes onto the felt then sewed the felt with tubing onto the rubber channel. I then attached the two clips to the rubber channel with the correct type rivets and put the channels into the doors as Don described.
Pluck
For outside observers here is another link to a previous window channel topic if your questions are not answered here.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186119
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186119
burner31, You have your signs on the wrong channels, the flat one goes on top and the hooked one on the bottom - at least on the rear window and I thought on the door windows also. The OP asked about a 2 Tudor sedan so I would like to add that in order the put the rear window channels in a different approach is needed from the front. The channels need to be put on the glass, push the whole works into the opening and attach the bottom hooks, pull up on the channels and attach the top flat hooks. Simple - if you are a monkey or have a good helper. You will notice that the recepticle for the bottom hook is key shaped which will allow installation as I described. This allows the channel to be pulled up to allow the top flat hook to be installed, then bend it over so it won't come out when the window is down. It goes without saying that the screws for the inner panel need to be removed and the panel pulled inward on the vertical support channel for the inner panel.
John
John
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burner31
Well-known member
Hole at top, key hole at bottom on the 1/4 windows, already have the panels on, no pics.
On the rear doors (see pics) it hooks on the edge of sheet metal at top, slot on the aft bottom of the rear of the door, nothing on the forward bottom of the rear door...that I can see.
Have not started the front doors yet.
On the rear doors (see pics) it hooks on the edge of sheet metal at top, slot on the aft bottom of the rear of the door, nothing on the forward bottom of the rear door...that I can see.
Have not started the front doors yet.
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Anything other than the hook on top defies logic.
The keyhole is made for the tag to be inserted into and then pulled up which locks the bottom in place and the hook then thru the pulling up process is engaged at the top as an anti gravity device...
Honestly now that I have done a couple of cars, I'd say contact cement is the best answer, something Henry Ford probably did not have available to him at the time.
His solution seems more in tune with old coach work methods.
The keyhole is made for the tag to be inserted into and then pulled up which locks the bottom in place and the hook then thru the pulling up process is engaged at the top as an anti gravity device...
Honestly now that I have done a couple of cars, I'd say contact cement is the best answer, something Henry Ford probably did not have available to him at the time.
His solution seems more in tune with old coach work methods.