how to install bushings ? steering sector shaft

in an effort to cure my wheel shimmy on a 28 roadster heres what ive done so far. removed the steering shaft sector the 2 bushings and the pitman arm. what I found was pitman arm ball not very round and sector shaft worn . the teeth are worn in the center. the new bushings fit snug on the new sector shaft but slack on the old and the old bushings fit snug on the new sector shaft but slack on the old one. to remove the old bushings I used a socket . question how s the best way to install these bushings ? is there a certain tool of a certain size ? thanks im a novice at this but so far so good john
 
Take them to a machinist. These bushings are fit to .001" and MUST be honed to fit.

The bushings from the dealers press in and the shaft fits without honing. This is just the high spots keeping it snug. They will wear quick. Yes I am saying they are likely useless unless they changed the part they are using from the ones I got.

If they are properly done, after installation the shaft will not fit in until it is honed. When you put the shaft in the hole it should not make shiny spots where there are high spots.
 
I agree with taking this to a good machinist. This needs to be a good tight fit. Glad to see you're using a bushing, I don't think this is a place for a needle bearing.
 
I did mine last year and would definitely change the worm with the sector gear. I wasn't able to remove the worm and had to have it changed at a machine shop. Assume you have the original seven tooth box, and recommend getting the lower retainer with the tub attached. I also think it's a good idea to install the sector to frame seal but it requires a little machining to the casting. I didn't do it but will be doing it soon.
Al
 
im not understanding. do the bushings as I got them just press in the hole. if so how do I install them with what tool ?I can slide them on the new shaft and they are snug with no slack at all. why wont this work ? im not understanding machine work ? thanks john
 
You need to "press" bushings in. A machinist will be able to do it with a hydraulic or mechanical press. If you try "driving" them in like you described their removal with a socket, you are apt to damage one or both ends.
When they are installed, in most cases, they'll be slightly undersize for the shaft. This is where they need to be honed out to the correct diameter with a reamer. The machinist will have this tool.
 
thanks . seems like there would be a tool to press them in, as ive got the car jacked up and cant drive it. I got them out without damaging the old ones. can you explain honing them out ? I would think that would make them to big. as I said you can put the new bushings on the new steering shaft and they are already very snug fit ,which is much much tighter that what came out. thanks im new at this appreciate all the education yall are giving john
 
thanks . seems like there would be a tool to press them in, as ive got the car jacked up and cant drive it. I got them out without damaging the old ones. can you explain honing them out ? I would think that would make them to big. as I said you can put the new bushings on the new steering shaft and they are already very snug fit ,which is much much tighter that what came out. thanks im new at this appreciate all the education yall are giving john
If you have a metal lathe, make a bushing driver with the end diameter 0.002 under the bore size. Make sure the diameter is long enough to press one bushing. Turn end-for-end and do it again. Snyders sell an all-purpose driver.

The norm for brass bushing diameter press fit is 0.001 per inch. So, you will probably have 0.0015 press. A good driver with some light oil will work.

Then either hone them your self with a small 3 bladed cylinder hone or have it done.

I have bearings. The Sector shaft turns very well and no slop at all.

Larry
 
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Using flat washers, sockets, and bolts or redi-rod, you can often pull bushings into place. Once they squeeze into position the inside diameter will almost always be a little smaller, and may need to be honed for a good fit to the shaft.
 
Harbor Freight has a (I said it) cheap, Chinese made Bushing Driver Set. I use then regurly, problem is the often used ones don't last long and then the set has to be replaced. The Driver "guides" the bushing and prevents the edge fron getting damaged. I use a contraption of washers, all-thread and nuts, similiar to Tom's idea, in conjunction with the Bushing Driver.
 
The bushings can be installed easily. Thats not the issue. Its fitting them to the shaft thats critical. That is if its to work as intended for another 80 years.
 
I understand the wisdom of taking things to a machinist, but my problem with that route is the difficulty in finding one in this day and age. I am sure some are around, but it is not like driving down to the nearby drugstore.
 
I understand the wisdom of taking things to a machinist, but my problem with that route is the difficulty in finding one in this day and age. I am sure some are around, but it is not like driving down to the nearby drugstore.

You think:: I disagree
 
Lets make it 6 from a guy that is a machinist. If you want it right it is not a job for some one that does not know how to put them in. Sorry.
But if they are tight on the shaft now( that is the way they should be) the shaft won't move when you get them in. But if you really want to put them in use the threaded rod like they said above.
 
Try this method...

If you have the means...heat up the part that the bushing is to go in...This will "expand" the metal and the hole.

Put the bushing in the freezer...this will "shrink" the bushing.

Once this is done, quickly install the bushing into the hole.

But first you must find something large enough to put the sector in to heat it.


Just a thought.

Pluck
 
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