How to install a synchronized transmission in a Ford Model A

P.S.

Well-known member
The full video just published a few minutes ago - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsyCPauO4P0

Gives a great inside look at the Mitchell synchronized transmissions that are built into original Model A transmission cases so you can't tell from casual appearances that the car is modified. Simple bolt-in synchronized transmission with no modifications or cutting needed.

Also- This is the video that the clips are from talking about keeping greasy fingers off the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel surfaces being discussed in another thread.
 
One interesting thing that was brought out earlier by the Mitchell video that Paul posted is the throws on the gear shift levers for the synchronized transmission are less than the standard transmission.
 
One interesting thing that was brought out earlier by the Mitchell video that Paul posted is the throws on the gear shift levers for the synchronized transmission are less than the standard transmission.

Yes. I thought that point was important enough to highlight in today's video also.

This video also shows how the new shift rail travel limit rings (they limit the shift forks from going past the detents and "over-shifting") work. A driver can slam the shifter into a gear without fear of damaging the fork or going past the gear mesh point. Really improves the Model A drivability and makes it even more "idiot proof".
 
This is the video that the clips are from talking about keeping greasy fingers off the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel surfaces being discussed in another thread.

I'm on the fence about touching the clutch (or brake) parts. I don't think the body oils on your hands will hurt but greasy hands is a different story.
 
I know, I am following the other thread. I very respectfully disagree. I do the same thing (keep oily/greasy fingers off) of brake shoes and drums when working on brakes.

Am I right or wrong? Even if I'm wrong, it certainly can't hurt to keep those contact surfaces free from oils, right? But- What if I'm right?
 
Am I right or wrong? Even if I'm wrong, it certainly can't hurt to keep those contact surfaces free from oils, right? But- What if I'm right?

The other thread is a discussion of opinions and how one person does something vs another.

No one is right, and no one is wrong :)
 
The Model T had a multi disk clutch, all steel disks, that was bathed in engine oil. The bands were cotton lined and also bathed in engine oil.

The synchro rings in the synchronized transmission do their synchronizing by a clutch action. The rings get the gears in time by the little clutches engaging. The transmission is bathed in gear oil.
 
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The Model T had a multi disk clutch, all steel disks, that was bathed in engine oil. ..... The synchro rings in the synchronized transmission do their synchronizing by a clutch action. The rings get the gears in time by the little clutches engaging. The transmission is bathed in gear oil.

The synchro in a transmission is made of metals that are forced (pressed) against each other. In the case of the Mitchell, brass against steel.

A Model A clutch disc is not metal. It's fibrous. It should be free from oils so it doesn't develop unevenness and start chattering.
 
The Model A transmission was made to work behind a 40 HP engine. Joe, at Turlock Machine, who built my engine with a Riley head estimated it was 85 HP. I chose to use a 1939 V8 synchromesh trans that was built to go behind a 85 HP engine. I bought the Clings kit and everything bolted in.
 
If'n it's so simple and easy why is a video needed?

He didn't say it was easy, you said that. It's actually a fairly long procedure. Video walkthroughs help provide a holistic sense of the process and can be a useful reference if you haven't done it before.
 
OK, here is a funny story to illustrate how installing a transmission in a Model A can go wrong. Sometime in the early 1960's, as a greasy teenager, I was under my Model A coupe installing the transmission and dropped it on my front tooth. Well, the tooth died and got infected. About 8 years later I had a root canal and a cap put on.

I still have the cap but the tooth has gotten weak over the years and about 10 years ago it broke in half. I tried super glue and epoxy but that did not work. I finally discovered that I could buy dental adhesive online. That would hold the tooth together for about 6 months but then I would have to clean up what was left in my mouth and the other half of the tooth with my Dremal and glue it back in. Now I use a little adhesive to glue it to the next door tooth and that seems to hold better and lasts about a year before I have to glue it back in.

Why not get an implant you ask. They are expensive and the insurance I have does not cover it. I got a quote of $19,000 but that included a couple of missing teeth. I am thinking I can just mold the missing teeth from the dental adhesive and glue them to the neighboring teeth. Or use some stainless wire and make some kind of bridge.
 
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My thoughts on teeth replacements. If you are under 40 and/or unmarried, maybe an investment in teeth is good. If you are over 65 and in good health, consider it. If you are over 85, probably not such a good idea.


Vic
 
You are an inspiration to us Model A "thrifties"!





OK, here is a funny story to illustrate how installing a transmission in a Model A can go wrong. Sometime in the early 1960's, as a greasy teenager, I was under my Model A coupe installing the transmission and dropped it on my front tooth. Well, the tooth died and got infected. About 8 years later I had a root canal and a cap put on.

I still have the cap but the tooth has gotten weak over the years and about 10 years ago it broke in half. I tried super glue and epoxy but that did not work. I finally discovered that I could buy dental adhesive online. That would hold the tooth together for about 6 months but then I would have to clean up what was left in my mouth and the other half of the tooth with my Dremal and glue it back in. Now I use a little adhesive to glue it to the next door tooth and that seems to hold better and lasts about a year before I have to glue it back in.

Why not get an implant you ask. They are expensive and the insurance I have does not cover it. I got a quote of $19,000 but that included a couple of missing teeth. I am thinking I can just mold the missing teeth from the dental adhesive and glue them to the neighboring teeth. Or use some stainless wire and make some kind of bridge.
 
nkaminar's "funny story" prompts me to think of the many other accounts, some rather embarrassing, that orbit within our memories. I salute him for his candor. I'm still not quite ready to disclose some of my personal "believe it or not" escapades in the pursuit of Model A perfection. Did I ever tell you about the time my homemade spring spreader launched a foot long piece of threaded rod just past my head and into the garage wall?
 
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