How to install a new ignition switch?

[Rui Roda]

Dear all,
First of all, as this is my first post, I would like to send a brotherly greeting to everybody in this Forum.
In my Model A 29 (RHD, that I bought when I lived in Argentina), the old ignition switch had a lock nut to fix it to the instrument panel. Recently I bought a new one (Mac's; see picture of both).
I have no idea how to install the new one in the panel (see picture).
What have I missed?
Thanks

 

[1955cj5]

Welcome to The Barn!

Your instrument panel should have a cup on the backside. That cup will have three holes in it for the three screws in the switch collar.

Also, you may want to screw the collar as far towards the switch body as possible to provide clearance for the electrical contacts on the back. Be sure to insulate the tank area directly behind the switch as an added precaution.

 

[Rui Roda]

Thank You 1955cj5!
Now I understood… When the old switch was installed, somebody cut the cup! I have to invent something to solve the problem.
Now I know what needs to be done.
Thanks again for your prompt answer

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Unfortunately I have seen that before. Instead of getting the proper switch (or part) someone modifies the dash (or whatever) so the incorrect part (kind of) fits.

Welcome to the barn, Rui Roda.

 

[rotorwrench]

The originals had the armored pop out switch with the cable that went through the firewall and attached to the distributor with a large threaded fitting and with a clamp to secure it to the cylinder head. When folks take them out and chuck them for a cheesy key lock switch, it requires that the ignition power wire to the distributor be attached to the points in a different manner. It also leaves a wide open hole in the distributor where moisture can get in unless a jumper is used to make the connection. This is a link to the emergency jumper. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/...fromCategory=Products/model-a/ignition-switch

I prefer the pop out switch since it is more tamper proof. That's why Ford set them up this way. This link is the entire assembly. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/...fromCategory=Products/model-a/ignition-switch

You will need the armored cable to make your pop out switch work again. Hopefully your dash isn't bored out too much.

 

[Rui Roda]

Dears Y-Blockhead and Rotorwrench,
Thank you for your advice!
Since the WWII to the sixties, Argentina blocked the imports of new cars, to create an internal market for their automobile industry. So, to keep running the old ones, people had to fit the spares they get (specially from Kaiser and later Renault)… Mine was daily used till the ‘70s.
When I bought the car, in the ‘80s it used an 8-volt battery, made in Córdoba (Argentina). Except the ignition, equipped with a rheostat, the starter, the horn and lights went much better.
So, I continue the car’s history, adapting what is available to get a result as satisfactory as possible.
I made the cup from a lavatory drain and to disguise the excessive hole of the old switch I used the housing of a fan’s bearing.
Finally, I cold welded the cup. Let’s see what happens…
All this came after removing the tank to repair the cracks originated from the vibration in the steering column (I had the tank repaired in the ‘80s, but now was leaking again). I copied the 30’s steering column support and adapted to the bolts under the windshield. I used a gas tank sealer made in Germany (Wagner), the same I applied before in a MGTD, and it seems me is going well.
Some pictures to show what I’ve done.

 

[JoeCB]

Rui, very creative and artfully done! Good job.

Joe B

 

[Badpuppy]

That JB Weld is great stuff. Won't damage the plating like a torch.

 

[john in illinois]

That is a very nice installation.

John

 

[Rui Roda]

Joe,
One has to be creative, as the distance and customs aren't kind to us.
Imagine: I bought an ignition switch ($58.88) and a Zenith basic rebuild kit ($37.99). Handling and transport added $79.39; Credit card, customs agent and custom duties, Euros 105,50. If I divide the total cost by the two parts, the real cost for me of ignition switch was $177,80 and the kit $114,71. Roughly three times the initial cost.
Rui