how to check rear wheel bearings

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khnaess

Member
Hello!
I have a 1937 Ford and today I raised the car to check for end play in the wheel bearings. I am familiar with the front bearing adjustment thanks too great info on this forum, but how about the rear? I can feel a little in/out movement when I pull on one of my rear wheel. Can this be adjusted?
Thanks
Knut Haakon
 
I don't think there is any adjustment on rear wheel bearings. Whe the hub and keyway are installed and the assembly "torqued tight" that's the only built in adjustment.
 

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khnaess said:
I can feel a little in/out movement when I pull on one of my rear wheel. Can this be adjusted?
Thanks
Knut Haakon
Click to expand...

Obviously, as you have realized, fronts and rears are entirely different. These old Ford rear axle SHAFTS require complete disassembly of the rear end to remove. There is a DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER in the center section which is made in two halves (#4205 LEFT, & #4206 RIGHT half in drawing). This carrier when assembled contains the four spider gears (#4215 X 4), the SPIDER/TRUNION #4211), and the TOOTHED SIDE GEARS at the inner end of EACH axle shaft. The side gear is essentially sandwiched between it's respective CARRIER half on the outside, and the DIFFERENTIAL or "SPIDER" gears on the inside. There is a very slight clearance between these three main components which could allow a slight "IN/OUT" movement of each axle. This is how the axle's movement INWARD or OUTWARD is constrained.

The outer end of the axle is "FLOATING". Without the brake drum hub and bearing in place, the axle end can move up, down, left or right...kind'a floppy and un-restrained. The outer WHEEL bearing (#1225) is fitted and retained into the hub by a snap ring. That bearing rides on the shiny, machined surface at each axle HOUSING end. As the drum/hub is slid onto the axle end, as well as the bearing fitting the axle HOUSING end, the axle shaft is now held centered and steady within the hub center so that it no longer "flops-around". There is NO adjustment for that outer bearing. It would not be abnormal to feel a very slight IN/OUT motion with the axle, considering the clearances inside the center differential section. If that movement is excessive (I'd say more than 1/16"), something is badly worn internally.

Drawing complements of Mac VanPelt...click on the link BELOW! DD


http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_rearend-pics/Flathead_Rear_Axle_Assy_1938to48.jpg
 
With the hub and drum off, check the underside of you housings where the bearings run for obvious wear marks. Just for information, the hubs are not supposed to be lubricated from oil in the diff. There are seals on the outboard inside end of you housings to keep oil from running out of those housings. Your hub bearings should be packed with grease.
 
Any in and out movement you feel is just the clearance in the differential gears. Movement is normal. Do not get aggressive if you try to pull the drum/ hub off. They are usually very hard to get off. Do not beat on the axle end. You are just beating on the gears. It takes a special puller to get them off.
 
Thank you all!
I guess I just leave the rear bearing as they are since I dont have the right puller. Hopefully they still have som grease inside... The car does not see many miles in the seasons anyway.
Rgds
Knut H
 
If stock........ The rear is torqued to 200lbs, there is no play in hub to axle if done right. 37 rear bearings (if I'm right/wrong) are straight roller bearings. They are available to replace.


A model a puller will pull the hubs if you like.
 
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The 37 should have grease fittings for the outer bearing. Go easy on the lube real easy .
I think VanPelts has a lube chart .
 
Ggmac said:
The 37 should have grease fittings for the outer bearing. Go easy on the lube real easy .
I think VanPelts has a lube chart .
Click to expand...

REAL easy on the lube. There's a reason why the fittings were eliminated in late '39.
 
khnaess said:
Hello!
I have a 1937 Ford and today I raised the car to check for end play in the wheel bearings. I am familiar with the front bearing adjustment thanks too great info on this forum, but how about the rear? I can feel a little in/out movement when I pull on one of my rear wheel. Can this be adjusted?
Thanks
Knut Haakon
Click to expand...




The only way to reduce this end play is to remove the axle and add some length to the flat surface on the inner end. This requires careful measuring then welding material to extend the end then machining flat. A lot of work or you can replace the axle and hopefully the new one will be within spec. Not easy but I have done it successfully several times when end play was excessive.
40larry
 
40larry said:
The only way to reduce this end play is to remove the axle and add some length to the flat surface on the inner end. This requires careful measuring then welding material to extend the end then machining flat. A lot of work or you can replace the axle and hopefully the new one will be within spec. Not easy but I have done it successfully several times when end play was excessive.
40larry
Click to expand...


Larry, with respect, I haven't a clue as to the "flat surface" you speak of, maybe I just don't understand what you are saying. The in/out play described is well addressed in post #3 above, the correction of which does not involve any welding or axle replacement.
 
ford38v8 said:
Larry, with respect, I haven't a clue as to the "flat surface" you speak of, maybe I just don't understand what you are saying. The in/out play described is well addressed in post #3 above, the correction of which does not involve any welding or axle replacement.
Click to expand...




The end of the axle contacts the center of the cross that holds the spider gears. When you move the axle in and out you are making contact at this point. If the axle end is increased the play is reduced.
 
(I think ! )Early Differentials have the grease Zerk /Nipple inboard so the grease squeezes between the axle and comes out the end of the housing and into the hub bearing. The oil seal in the Axle housing has a double purpose and that is to retain the grease and feed it towards the tapper end , and 2 retain the oil in the banjo , I tend to think more the latter .Later Difs such as 49 have cone shape washers that fit on the spider gears to control end float , Hardened automatic trans washers could be used on the ends of the early axles to control end float at the spider gears ,
 
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If you think about the oil if the driver was to park on a slope there is a drain back behind the crown wheel side cup also up the tube is the seal ,that's between the zerk and wish bone stay mount So the oil has to get past that plus a big Glob of grease, Then if it works its way into the hub bearing then past it it has the hub seal .After that it has the grease retainer in the center of the shoes , and a hole to let it out on the ground ,
Sorry to take over Knuts thred ,thought it might be useful info for some one ,
 
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