How to check my generator

I tested the generator with the band off to make sure it was in working conditions and when I put power to the top screw nothing happened. I then gave it direct power to the inside of the generator wire and it turned slowly. I took the generator off the car and this is what I found in the inside of the generator. What do you guys think? Time for a rebuilt?
 

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Bob is right. The spring is broken and the insulator for the spring to post is missing.
If you're lucky that's all that's wrong. Take it apart and take a few more pictures.

Actually since you wanted to install the EVR I make, then you can use the spring and insulator from the adjustable brush to fix the output brush.
 
The only way I can get the motor to turn is if I put the power to the black cable without the yellow fitting on pic 5 directly
 
OK, now I can see the spring better and it does look OK, but someone used the insulator on the ground brush instead of the output brush.

Move the insulator to the output brush, clean the rust, and reassemble and give it a try. I put a drop of oil on each of the 3 brush springs, and be sure to polarize it just before you start the engine.

Also check that the brushes run parallel to the commutator bars. In an earlier picture it looked like the output brush was cocked a little.
 
Bob C said:
Is the spring in the last picture broken??

Bob
Click to expand...

The spring that you are talking about bob I'm guessing someone replaced it before with their own made spring and it was just loose and is missing the plastic cover to keep the spring leg in place
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Bob is right. The spring is broken and the insulator for the spring to post is missing.
If you're lucky that's all that's wrong. Take it apart and take a few more pictures.

Actually since you wanted to install the EVR I make, then you can use the spring and insulator from the adjustable brush to fix the output brush.
Click to expand...

I took a few more pictures tom and would in turn the motor applying direct power to the black wire on pic 5.

I want to get it working properly, before I install the regulator. Still not sure what is making the motor not work properly
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Here are two pictures of the one I make installed. It replaced the adjustable brush and it's holder.
The field wire then attaches to the brass screw on the aluminum angle heat sink.

This end plate has the rear bushing, which replaced the ball bearing starting about March 1930.

John Regan makes a voltage regulator that fits in the cutout and replaces the stock cutout, and Mr. Peterson makes one that is mounted to the generator band.
Click to expand...

Tom if I understand your regulator, it only used 2 brushes and the other one is replaced with something else you have? Please explain a little more since this is all new to me
Thanks
 
Also notice the thin metal plate has 4 screws retaining it, rather than rivets. That means someone replaced the bearing and probably used a sealed bearing, which is good for you. They put the retaining plate on wrong though because the small U notch is to clear the rivet for the oiler cover. The U notch should face the top of the generator, so you'll have to turn the retainer a quarter turn.

Make sure the adjustable brush and the output brush have stepped insulating washers for the pivots, and also for the end of the spring on the post.
 
Hi tom
When you say "someone used the insulator on the ground brush instead of the output brush". I am not sure what that means? Can you explain, does that mean take the black wire and switch it with the wire with yellow? Swap? Sorry for all the questions
 
D's31 said:
Hi tom
When you say "someone used the insulator on the ground brush instead of the output brush". I am not sure what that means? Can you explain, does that mean take the black wire and switch it with the wire with yellow? Swap? Sorry for all the questions
Click to expand...

Actually I was wrong there and should have said the pivot for the ground brush doesn't have an insulator, but the spring end does, so all 3 spring ends should have an insulator with a groove for the end of the spring. See my first picture in #43. I would move the insulator from the ground post to the output post and either find or make a small insulator with a groove to hold the brush end. For the ground brush you could actually get by with nothing for the spring end, but then the spring would have less pressure on the brush. Hardware stores often have some kind of insulating tube or something that might work. Take the end plate in to show them what you need. If you can't find anything close by, I can mail you one, and hope it doesn't get lost or broken.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Actually I was wrong there and should have said the pivot for the ground brush doesn't have an insulator, but the spring end does, so all 3 spring ends should have an insulator with a groove for the end of the spring. See my first picture in #43. I would move the insulator from the ground post to the output post and either find or make a small insulator with a groove to hold the brush end. For the ground brush you could actually get by with nothing for the spring end, but then the spring would have less pressure on the brush. Hardware stores often have some kind of insulating tube or something that might work. Take the end plate in to show them what you need. If you can't find anything close by, I can mail you one, and hope it doesn't get lost or broken.
Click to expand...

Got it will work on that
Thanks Tom
 
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