How to adjust "toe in" on Model A

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Pinchy The Great

Junior Member
I'm about to do my first toe in adjustment on my 1931 Model A Roadster. I took apart the tie rod and drag link and replaced springs and cups, cleaned them up, reassembled, and greased.

I've read through existing threads (http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30825&showall=1)
.. explaining the different methods. I understand I'm trying to adjust the tie rod so that the measured distance between the same point on front of the tire 6-12" off the ground is 1/16" closer on the front than the back. What I don't see any explanation on is how to get to the flat head adjustment on the end of the rod. On my car the only way to access the screw is to turn the wheel all the way to right or left to get at the adjustment, and the wheel has to be off to access it.

Do I have to jack the front end up, and remove the wheel, turn the wheel, make adjustments, replace wheel, bolt on all the lug nuts, straighten wheels, lower off jacks, measure and repeat? It sounds like a very lengthy process. Is there a way to adjust these with the wheels on? I was looking around at the hardware store to see if there might be a flathead screwdriver with short end and right angle that might possibly allow me to make this adjustment with wheels in place, but this doesn't look likely - there's only about 1/4" between the end of the rod and the back of the hub. Is there a trick to this to make this adjustment less tedious?
 
That is not the adjustment for toe in. You want to loosen the bolt and nut after taking the cotter pin out on the rod where it goes into the tie rod end. You have to do this to both ends. Take a pipe wrenc h and turn the rod in one direction and remeasure the distance. One way the toe in will be greater and if you turn the rod the other way it will be less. Any other questions just ask.
 
If you know someone with a Duby toe in gage ( which I like to see clubs invest in) it is not a difficult job and very accurate, with wheels on the ground as it should be measured.
 
The tie-rod is right thread one end and left thread the other end, so, as the fellas say,loosen the clamps and turn the rod.
Make sure the springs are adjusted correctly to about 3/4 the original length.
A spring loaded curtain rod works well for the measuring. Roll the car forward when checking, not backward.
 
Thanks for all the replies - that make a lot more sense now, glad I asked, I thought all those adjustments were on the ends. I'll give this a try ..and glad I won't have to take the wheels on and off several times like I thought.
 
I just completed a toe-in adjustment (I had toe-out) with a spring loaded curtain rod I bought at Home Depot. I added a couple short pieces of chain to set the height from the floor. It worked great and the measurements were surprisingly repeatable. Maybe it would not hold up in a pro shop, but for "once in a blue moon" home use, it works fine.
 
I struggled with lumpy tires, and inconsistent tools and was never able to get my cars aligned satisfactorily.
I have achieved the best results by taking the car to a truck alignment shop where they align large vehicles with mechanical equipment (not the electronic/laser/automatic equipment at Firestone type places).
For $30, Greg at Acme Wheel pulled the front-end of both of my cars into perfect running condition. The drivability and confidence in the service were well worth the money.
 
The answer from Les was described in a July 2013 article (with pictures). All it took was a piece of string and ruler. I will try to email article if you do not have Restorer mag.
 
Whatever method you use, AFTERWARDS, always keep your tires inflated properly & observe the tread, for scuffing, either in or out, in case you have to make a MINOR correction, either in or out. Takes just a few minutes to loosen the 2 bolts & turn the tie rod in or out 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn to correct it. Just try to remember which way toes it in or out. IF you forgit which way?? Jist ask yo' Dog!
Bill W.
 
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