How to adjust the body panels??

slantback37

slantback37

Senior Member
Hi. I rebuilt a Grille for a 37 Tudor Sedan. That works fine. Fits the fenders. I am using the original opener. The stud lines up with the hole in the hood fine. Now the rest of it is off.. There is a gap between the hood filler and the hood on both sides. If I bring up the front of the fenders. Then the hood won't fit. If I lower the back down and raise the front a little then the hood still fits ( kind of ), but it fits, but the back of the hood filler is tight at the top and has a gap of maybe 1/2" at the bottom. If I pull off the fenders off and bolt the Grille to the inner fenders and line every thing up and bolt it down tight. Then unbolt the Grille and re attach the fenders and Grille back on. Nothing fits.. Is there a book out there that shows how this is done?? thanks
 
I have the same woes.
Kube, when you read this post, please suggest some key words to search on. I tried searching but came up empty handed.
Thanks,
gregg
 
Here is a copy
V8COOPMAN
Senior Member



Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
Posts: 4,955


icon1.gif
Re: need help - 39 Delux hood adjustment
Below is the "KUBE" gospel on '39-'40 HOOD and front fender alignment....it works, but you've gotta fit the hood FIRST, with the fenders and grill out of the way. DD

I start the front sheet metal alignment only when I am completely satisfied with the door alignment. If you're restoring a convertible, it's a MUST that the top be completely installed (in the up position) and functioning as well.
Running boards are not on the vehicle at this time. It is FAR easier to install them later and adjust the rear fenders to the boards.
It is in my opinion, imperative that the hood be installed and aligned to the cowl prior to any fender(s) / grille work is installed. Take your time at this step. It is important that you have good hinges and springs. There should be no wear at any of the pivot points. If there is, the adjustments will be (more) difficult at best and the alignment will not last.
Be careful that the gap is even from side to side both along the top (between the hood and top of the cowl) and each hood side. Be certain the same amount of gap exists between the hood and the cowl. The height of the hood should be even with the cowl. Remember that a persons eye will be drawn naturally to the side of the vehicle and especially to the straightness of the trim and body line. It is imperative that these lines are straight! Bottom line -- the hood MUST BE CORRECTLY aligned. Take your time and get it RIGHT! Before moving on tighten all attaching points. There should be no need readjust the hood later.

Prior to installing the fenders I elongate and enlarge the four clearance holes that will be used to bolt the fender to the lower cowl.* Also at this time I enlarge the four holes in the front of the fender that the grille will later bolt through.*
The grille should be a complete assembly PRIOR to installation. This is important as there is no allowance for adjustment within the grille assembly. Originally the stainless strips at each side of the grille (Deluxe only) were stapled to the sheet metal louvers. Doing this makes the installation a bit neater and positively easier. On concourse vehicles be certain to use round wire staples. Flat staples were not used in 1940.

Now it's time to install the inner fender panel to the respective fender. Prior to this installation enlarge the clearance hole at the bottom (near center) of the inner fender panel.* This hole will be used later to bolt the inner fender to the frame directly next to the brake hose bracket. Be certain to enlarge the correct hole. Of the two holes in this area one will contain a grommet while the other is intended as a clearance hole for the fastener. There is a caged nut on the inner frame to accept this bolt/washer assembly. Bolt the inner panel to the fender at the top using the special flat carriage bolts. Tighten all securely. On concourse vehicles a thin webbing material is required between the fender and inner panel.

Now's the fun part!
WITH HELP, install a fender / inner panel assembly. Loosely install the nut/bolt assembly through the 'Y' brace to the inner panel. Install (snug -- not tight) the four bolt / washer assemblies at the lower bottom of the fender to the caged nuts within the cowl. Now install the other fender.
Again, WITH HELP, using the eight nut / bolt / washer assemblies install the grille assembly between the two fenders. Again, snug -- not tight.
Now's the (not) fun part!
There is no easy way to do the remaining aligning. However, patience is an absolute must! Do not be surprised if this takes two, even three evenings. I tend to 'walk away' when I become frustrated.
Slowly and methodically push / pull / tug on the fenders and grille assembly until you are somewhat satisfied with the alignment. Keep a careful eye at the horizontal gap between the hood and the grille (top) as well as the vertical alignment of the hood to grille.
Tighten the bolts at the grille / fenders just a bit more at this time. Recheck all the gaps. If you remain satisfied move on to the four bolts at the lower fender edge / cowl. Tighten these a bit more too. Do the other fender.
Continue to recheck all the gaps after tightening each area.**
Tighten the bolt / nut assemblies at the 'Y' brace. Again, check all of the gaps to be certain nothing has moved.
If you remain satisfied with the entire alignment it's time to tighten all fasteners securely. If you are not satisfied you should be able to push / pull at the fenders as thus far the attachment points are only snug. Remember, "snug -- not tight"? This allows the sheet metal to be moved a bit into place and hold it there prior to firmly securing the fasteners.
If this tightening causes the fenders to pull in too much it is practical to install a thin washer between the fender panel(s) and brace. On reproduction panels I've found it necessary to enlarge this hole (inner panel) just a bit.
Lastly, install the lower radiator air deflector. It may be necessary to enlarge a hole or two in this pan. Not to worry -- all are covered by the proper fasteners.

* I enlarge the holes to 1/2" and elongate approximately 1/8" on either side of each hole. The elongation should follow the curve of the fender. Remember that all these holes will be completely covered by the correct body washers.
**If any gap should change after a specific area has been secured you know with certainty which area caused the effect. You may need to elongate a hole or two in that area a bit more. There should be NO binding at any attachment points.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth
 
Cool, let me digest this and figure out a strategy. After a lot of fussing, mine is close but still not good enough.
Thanks for the info guys.
gregg
 
Beware....That Kube instruction sheet that cmbrucew posted is for a '39 and '40 front end...…..NOT '37! DD
 
When I bolted on the hood for the first time. I never saw any oval, or elongated holes for adjustment. Is that something I need to do on my own?? The gap from the hood to the cowl is rather large. Also. I had to replace the floor. I pieced together the grill, the body wasn't on the frame, and I had to find the fenders from a different car.
 
Moved hood.. Looks nice. Shimming the body is a pain in the butt. Slow work. I get it just to where I want it.Bolt it down tight, and it goes off about 1/8". Loosen it up. Put in a 1/8" shim. Tighten it down again, and off now by 1/16". Getting late. I'll work on it tomorrow night. Have to work tomorrow.
 
Okay. Now I understand. Got the hood looking good. Got the door gap back. Used the Grille, Inner fender, and the hood filler to arrange everything. Took a while to make it all fit. Looked real good, and the hood closer looked good.The hood slid over that post without touching on all sides. I then tightened everything down tight and re installed the fenders. Now it is all off again. The front horns where the bumper brackets go is so much lower than the fender that I had to lower the inner fender down to line up the fender holes. The hood still closes pretty good, but the gap is way to tight at the top of the hood filler and way to wide at the bottom. Glad I am going to retire in a couple of months. I will need the time to try to figure all of this out.
 
a few pictures of my problem.. Also. If the door gap is tight at the rear of the door bottom, but wider at the top. Where do I lift in the back to straighten that out??
 

Attachments

  • DSC00007.JPG
    DSC00007.JPG
    58.5 KB · Views: 62
  • DSC00008.JPG
    DSC00008.JPG
    59.5 KB · Views: 66
  • DSC00009.JPG
    DSC00009.JPG
    60.9 KB · Views: 65
  • DSC00010.JPG
    DSC00010.JPG
    59.9 KB · Views: 53
Got my gap in the door back somewhat. Still have that gap between the hood filler and the grille ( Second picture ). Now it is kind of tight at the rear of the filler at the top, and wide at the bottom. Once I put the other fender on I will try to readjust the whole works again..
 
Probably not.. Nothing I can do now though. That would mean taking the whole car apart and lifting the body off again.
 
Okay. Been a while since I posted. Still working on the front of the car. Now after doing all of this for the umpteenth time. I discovered that the hood is to wide. Is there a way other than what I was thinking to pull the hood in on the side?? I was thinking of putting a vice grip on each side of the hood. Then use a ratchet strap and connect it to each grip. Then use the ratchet and crank on it until it comes in just a little bit more than I need. Let it come out again and try that. I don't want to put any dents in the hood by pounding on it.. Thanks..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top