FWIW, just one experience to share -- life is full of so many different, most interesting experiences -- smile!
Maybe a good thing we all don't like to eat just canned sardines (3) times a day -- there would be a possibility that with such exports, Morocco & Spain would rule the World.
1. When I bought my 1930 Town Sedan a few years ago, the former car collector owner must have misinterpreted how to tighten front & rear wheel bearing nuts -- or someone did -- another amazing Model A find!
2. Good thing he only drove it 200 miles or so over a period of 20 years while he had it in storage because the two (2) rear nuts were only hand tight & the front nuts were very, very tight -- never thought to check the front nuts if they were at 100 ft.-lbs., but the races were turning in both front hub even though someone tried to roughen both hub & race with a center punch -- luckily, rear axles were not ruined.
3. Mr. Mel Gros later kindly recommended his installing good used front hubs when he installed new front cast iron drums as opposed to the hammer & punch methods on tightening races which he remarked would not endure very long.
4. There were so many Model A messages on shimming races, upsetting races, tightening front wheel bearings, etc., etc. on Model A message Forums back then, decided to call Timken Bearing Company to try to confirm what I had always heard & read about from well experienced vintage mechanics years ago.
5. After calling Timken at that time, besides the advised Timken recommended of no more than 0.007" inch clearance for front conical bearings, this gentleman explained further, additional information on preserving hubs & installing Timken conical bearing races in hubs.
6. He mentioned that hubs are usually ruined with Timken conical bearing races because many over-tighten conical bearings; hence, when the bearing gets hot after rotation & expands, because there may be more friction between the bearing & the race, when one hits a bump or the vehicle bounces, the race begins to slip in the hub. Over a length of time, the race wears more & begins to spin in the hub & wears out the hub -- sounds familiar after investigating used front hubs?
7. Also he remarked that races should be driven in hubs for an "interference" fit which he described as not being loose; however, not being so tight that he race cannot rotate. Also the race should be installed with axle grease so if on occasion with 90 degree weight stress, the race rotates a little, the lubrication will prevent iron to iron wear between the race & hub.
8. I did not ask this Timken gentleman about pre-load on conical bearing drive shafts & rear axle conical bearings inside banjo; however, I think my differential was original when I rebuilt it to install a new 3:27 R & P ratio -- anyway, again FWIW, this is what I found on a supposedly over 80 year old differential set up:
a. The Town Sedan differential was totally noiseless & operated smoothly as compared to the musical corn-grinder noise made by my 1930 coupe.
b. Prior to disassembly, I checked existing rear end preload & existing axle in & out play.
c. Existing axle in & out movement was less than the recommended 0.010".
d. Existing drive shaft in the vertical position had absolutely no noticeable preload when tested with an inch-pound torque wrench -- also no noticeable in & out movement.
e. Both existing axles when held vertically had absolutely no noticeable pre-load when turned with the inch-pound torque wrench -- also no noticeable in & out movement.
9.. On reassembly:
A. Set differential preload at 20 inch-pounds using Mr. Tom Endy's written methods for Model A differential rebuild information.
B. Set front wheel bearings per Timken's recommendations.
C. Don't hold you r breath waiting for a follow up bearing report 20 years from now -- 20 years? ............... hmmmmm, heck, nothing like hope!
Again, each to his own, & lots of profound respect for all Model A owners with varying opinions.
Bill W.
gots a lot of time!!
