How tight should Rear Wheels be tightened

J

josh1331

Senior Member
Any torque numbers or just by feel? I have a little side to side play very very little. On right rear. So small of movement I'm wondering if it's really causing a little clunk when I make a turn ,not often just once in a while depends how fast I'm going into a street. Maybe spring? Not broken but maybe shackle ?
 
Ok, the wheel lug nuts should be around 75 lbs ft. The hub nut should be very tight. 200lbs ft plus. You will have no play originating from the tightness of these nuts. (Unless actually loose to the point of being undone).

BUT!

The axle can have some axial end float. If you jack it up and push/pull the wheel in and out you may feel some end float. This is normal and is a reflection of the fit of the differential gears.

My 40 had hardly any end float on one side and what I would consider quite a lot on the other. I'd guess about 1/16", maybe more but not as much as 1/8".

It's pretty normal and in my opinion not a cause for concern.

What is making the clunk is anyone's guess not knowing the state of maintenance on your suspension and shocks,links.

Hope this helps at least a little.

Mart.
 
The tapered washers referred to by 19Fordy above are called (lug nuts cupped washers PN B-1013 and I have purchased from C&G in the past. They are listed as SS and $ .95 each in 2012 catalog.
 
FlatheadTed said:
Maybe your spider gears need shimming ,Some 80 year old axles threads will not take a full torque .Ted
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If my 80 year old axles wouldn't take full torque I would replace them. Without full torque (or very near it) the hub will work and the axle will crack and break leading to the loss of the wheel. If you have hydraulics be sure you are running safety clips or safety hubs (even if you can reach full torque).

Charlie Stephens
 
Thank you all for feedback, I will check for 100+ ft pounds at least I believe I set it for 75 , do it again tomorrow. Those washers seem like a good idea also, john
 
Tightening the wheel lug nuts are not going to do you a bit of good for the problem you are having. The wheel lug nuts need to be tightened properly, that is for sure, but it has nothing to do with the looseness you are describing. Any movement would almost have to be coming from the center section.
 
Anyone know if the torque of an impact gun would be adequate for the rear axle nut?
 
hope said:
Anyone know if the torque of an impact gun would be adequate for the rear axle nut?
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I don't think using the impact is a good idea. My impact can easily snap off a lug nut stud. Wouldn't want to take the chance of ruining axle nut threads. It's like what the bolt said to the nut: "Don't thread on me."
 
FlatheadTed said:
Maybe your spider gears need shimming ,Some 80 year old axles threads will not take a full torque .Ted
Click to expand...

Ted, do you have any examples of shimming spider gears that you could post here with explanations and pictures?
I recently finished a rebuild of the rear in my '35 fordor that included replacing 3.78 gears with 3.54 gears. I think these new gears are awesome for highway cruising at 65 mph and required no downshift going up any of the hills or mountains in MD, WV, or PA.
As I was torquing the axle nuts to the specification of 200 - 220 ft. lbs., I found the right wheel, hub/drum and axle assembly had some side to side/end play of ~ 0.040-0.050", while the right side had very little, if any, endplay. I have driven this car ~ 3,000 miles since this rebuild, and now plan to recheck axle nut torque and side to side endplay. If the endplay exceeds 0.050", I may want to go back into this rear and somehow do some shimming. Not the most pleasant thought :(.
 
John No photos but I plan to do my own 34 soon .I did a 49 Ford or what we call a single spinner, it had broken up the spider gears because it was shimmed with composite cup shims and they had broken ,so I fitted steel cups as original ,as you know on early rears they have 4 spiders with just flat faces so I would suggest hardened spacer washers ,you could try these on the spiders if there's room or on the axles to bring them into mesh .If on the axles they will pull in or shorten the hub taper so a bit of experimenting here will be needed .I think the transmission builders would stock the washers .I would think they need to be at least 3/8 wide on the axles and not to thin 30 th min ,Ted
 
hope said:
Anyone know if the torque of an impact gun would be adequate for the rear axle nut?
Click to expand...

Do not rely on just using an impact! Use a torque wrench!! Impact output varies greatly. Air line pressure, wear in the gun, how long since it was oiled, design of the gun, diameter and length of the air hose, whether or not a socket extension is used (this is a biggie!), all play a part.
 
Reading your post re shimming, Ted, is interesting, I think that if a rear currently has, lets say .050" in and out play, and (importantly) nothing rubs or fouls when it is fully in, it ought to be perfectly ok to place a shim behind the axle gear and the carrier. I don't know what material would be suitable but in principle, in my mind at least, it should be ok.

That said, running with some end float, as long as nothing is rubbing or fouling, is ok too and less work.

Mart.
 
Yes cupped washers ,to much end float can mean gear mesh is on the tip of the tooth ,there is a spiral oil track cut into the carrier so a large washer should do it ,Ted
 
Tighten one more notch at 130 ftlb seems ok have another problem. Horn, it started with the hen ring very sensitive .it would blow if you just touched it, then it wouldn't stop one day . First should I take horn ring off if so how does it come off on 1941 super deluxe, .?second, does anyone have instructions on replacing horn wire?. Have manual but nothing on this in book ,thanks for all help, john
 
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