How SWEET the sound

Minn-Tex Lee

Senior Member
I just got my new manifold gasket and gland rings. The replace process went very well. No parts left over etc. I didn't know the torque value for the manifold nuts so I will go with 50# unless you folks know better. I took it around the block (4 miles) and she ran and sounded really nice. Thanks so much for all of your assistance on this problem.
Till next time.
Lee
 
I don't use a torque wrench on manifold nuts. Matter of fact I just got done changing a blown gasket today for a club member.
I use a 1/2" drive socket wrench and tighten each one up a little at a time keeping the "torque" even across all four. I keep doing this until they snug up good and quit moving. If I put a little bit more grunt into it I could get them to move some more if I wanted.
Check em again after a hundred miles or so until they settle in.
 
Leave the torque wrench alone. Snug the nuts up,start motor...no leaks then drive till motor is hot.
Now go back and snug nuts some more before the motor cools. About 50 miles later check the nuts.
That's it,leave them alone. Also tap the Muffler clamp with a hammer a few times,this sets the clamp better. You will find the bolts very loose. Tighten, tap,tighten, tap. You will have a leak free exhaust for years.
 
Those large thick washers should have a cup shape, and the concave side goes toward the manifold. These washers are actually springs that enable thermal expansion. Whatever you do, do not compress the cups flat. Follow Wick's instructions.
 
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