How important is it to replace the head bolts when installing a HC head??

I second the wax technique. I learned the hard way not to use an easy-out on broken head studs. Turns out they like to break off in there. After three days and a trip to get the acetylene bottle refilled, I finally got it out. I know this probably isn't helping my arguement, but I think changing the studs now will pay off in the long run. I'm always for using fresh metal as opposed to 80 year old metal, at least in regards to the engine. A repretable engine builder down here in Texas (Ron Kelley) told me to not torque the head studs over 60 pounds or it will start distort the top of the block, that 60 pounds will hold the head on there good and tight.
 
When I removed the studs on my A engine I broke 2 or 3 using a pipe wrench.
When it came time to do the B I used the sears pound on removing tool and used my impact wrench on a low setting. I was putting on a Riley 2 Port head and wasn't going to reuse the studs.
The impact wrench pounding on the stud worked great. A few took a while but they all eventually broke loose and came out. With the pipe wrench method its to easy to over torque the stud and they break at the block because of the corrosion. It wouldn't hurt to do the heat and solvent first.
 
Looking at your studs you should have no problem. Mine were RUSTY and I only snapped one off. If you do snap one off drilling the broken stud out is very easy.

Good luck!
 
buyitsmart said:
I have heard that a Snyder's 6.1:1 head should be torqued to 65 lbs. Is this true?
Click to expand...

Bill,

65# is to much.

Snyder's suggests 55# in the order shown on the attached pdf.
Click on the attachment...The info on the attached pdf is their installation instructions for the 6:1 head. With the silicone gasket you plan to use, 55# will be all you need. Just re-torque it often until it stops seating.
Good Day!
 

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