How do you get front wheels straight before setting Toe-In

V4F said:
I adjusted mine to my best effort , then took it to alignment shop for 4 wheel alignment .

it was so close they told me to go home as I didn't need anything done .
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I believe the only thing that can be checked on the rear end is thrust angle. Because of the leaf springs and solid axel I don’t believe there are any adjustments that could be made to rear end for alignment.

If your rear axel is out of alignment the front wheels will automatically compensate for this. Your steering wheel will not be centered as it now has to be turned to one side or the other for the car to move down the road in a straight line. This would cause the car to have an angle as it drove down the road.

A front end shop will be able to check this for you. Bent frame, and worn rear end parts could all contribute to thrust angle.
 
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The steering shaft key should be in the 12 o'clock position If I remember right. That is your wheel center. You cannot control the left wheel alignment at this point as there is no drag link adjustment. All you can do is set toe in when you are finished the wheel may be off center somewhat for various reasons such as distance from axle to steering gear. If this changes just slightly the wheel will be off. if you are dog tracking the wheel will be off.
 
I think how it can be made right is when a Steering Column is restored THEN the shaft with the key have to be positioned at the 12 o'clock position. There is nothing I can do now that the Steering Column is installed.
 
turning the wheel lock to lock may not give you an exact center. Use the key way. The key way should clock the wheel either in a X or + position.
 
Toe-in is the easy part! What I found on my rims was the two front rims were just a little out of whack! (not running true) I read how to straighten the rims, and chose rather to find the two straightest rims and put them on the front axle, and then redo the toe in. There are a lot of articles on rim straightening by use of heat and tools I don't have!
 
While true running wheels are a plus they are not necessary for setting toe in. Spin the wheels and scribe a line.
 
What I think this all boils down to is he is trying to clock his steering wheel. Guess that would be the least of my worries. I would find the center on the steering box, same number of turns left or right back to center and work from there. With out hands on there could be all kinds of issues, steering arms, one drag link screwed on more then the other, pitman arm bent, tie rod bent etc etc.
 
All,

I have replaced the steer arms, and pitman arm to get new balls. I have had the steering box rebuilt.

I found a piece of 20' PVC that I had, placed it about 4-5 inches off the ground against the back wheel. Then I removed the Tie-Rod completely. I adjusted the front wheel on each side to hit the PVC pipe that was parallel with the rear wheel. Then I adjusted the Tie-Rod to basically sit down on top of the steering arms that are now correctly positioned.

Screwed in all the end caps for drag link and tie-rod.
Then I set toe-in, rolling the car back and forth a couple times to make sure the measurement was correct.

She runs straight and true now.

My steering wheel is a little off center, but that is ok.
I have about 1/2" of play in the steering wheel.

Thanks for everyone's input.
 
I think all Model As have the option of either x pattern or spoke at top. The important thing is that the box is centered with equal travel R & L and at the point of least free play. If your intent is to have the wheel just so, you're missing the point completely. As has been mentioned, get an adjustable drag link. Dog legging will throw the box centering off but so does + or - camber on the road.
 
Back in the old days when I was in Automotive college, I was taught that centering the steering wheel was always the first step.
As far as using the back wheels for a reference line, that isn't too accurate if you have a very slightly bent rim on the front or rear.
Daren007 nailed it above. Jack up each front wheel and spin the wheel. Hold a sharp point against the tire and it will scribe a line around the tire at the true center of rotation. Let it back down on the tires, bounce it a little to settle it in and then measure from your scribe lines at the front and back of the tires.
 
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