Old Redneck
Well-known member
My 56 T-Bird has way to much play in the Steering. About a quarter of a turn.Yhat my next project is to correct it.
How do I adjust the play in my Steering?
- Thread starter Old Redneck
- Start date
Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
First inspect the steering linkage and correct any slop, (ball joints, idler arm, etc). On the driver's end of the drag link you'll see a large screw-in plug secured by a cotter pin. Behind the plug is the ball stud that's connected to the Pitman arm. There a 2 cups and 2 springs, one each on each side of the ball stud. These are often neglected during lubrication so the stud gets worn into an egg shape. I suggest you inspect the ball stud. If it's egg shaped you can try turning it 90 degrees but it's best to replace it and the cups. Kits are available from the usual suspects. After you've eliminated all the slop in the linkage drive it and note the improvement. If there's still a lot of slop the next step is to tighten up the steering gear mesh. Read and heed the service manual first. These old Ford steering boxes are notorious for the lower seal leaking, allowing the box to run dry. If that's the case it's time for a rebuild. Again the parts are available but IMO it's a job best left to a pro.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Most steering gear adjustments pull the sector gear closer to the worm in order to decrease the backlash due to wear. Adjustments are always done with the steering wheel on center. This is also where they wear out since this is where they are positioned for most of their working life. They tend to get spall type pitting in that spot so it may get a notchy feel to it if you take up the slack. I usually disconnect the tie rod from the pitman arm so that I can feel for notches while adjusting the play out. If it ends up notchy feeling then the worm will need replacement. The sector roller gear should also be checked for damage in that case. If wear is minimal then it should still turn easily through the center going both ways.
As was mentioned previously, wear can come from a number of other places so all should be checked.
As was mentioned previously, wear can come from a number of other places so all should be checked.
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
Ummm...Dobie I am pretty sure his Bird has the power steering assist in which the drag link is integral with the PS control valve. So disregard the adjustment of drag link. That is a standard steering procedure.
So here's my question for OldRedneck....Did the steering have all this play BEFORE you had you control valve rebuilt???
If so, check loose tie rod end joints and nuts. Also check to see if idler arm bracket is tight on frame and that idler arm bushings are not rotted out. I personally don't like the '56 and later rubber bushed idler arm bushings because if oil gets on the rubber, it causes the rubber to soften, expand and fall apart in a few years. I am still using the '55 and earlier metal bushed idler arm with roller bearings. These can last forever if kept well greased.
Also open hood and look to see if upper horse-shoe shaped suspension arm shims are tight. If any of the bolts are loose, you may have lost shims on the road, not only accounting for loose steering but badly throwing your front end alignment off. This can be temporarily remedied by adding shims to fill the void just long enough to take the car to y6our favorite front end alignment specialist.
Check your steering gearbox worm and roller gear mesh adjustment. Adjust per shop manual directions and re-install cap. Fill the gearbox with 90 wt gear oil.
If the steering did NOT have all that play until after you installed the new control valve, I suppose it is possible that the guy who rebuilt the control valve left some parts out of the drag link inside. That would account for a LOT of play.
In the past, I have always tried to hold a rebuilt control valve in my hand and move the drag link ball stud with my other hand. It should not be loose at all. You can also check it if it is already installed on the car by disconnecting the drag link ball stud from the sector arm and push the whole steering arm upward enough to try to move that ball stud back-and-forth. If it is not loose, it is okay.
So here's my question for OldRedneck....Did the steering have all this play BEFORE you had you control valve rebuilt???
If so, check loose tie rod end joints and nuts. Also check to see if idler arm bracket is tight on frame and that idler arm bushings are not rotted out. I personally don't like the '56 and later rubber bushed idler arm bushings because if oil gets on the rubber, it causes the rubber to soften, expand and fall apart in a few years. I am still using the '55 and earlier metal bushed idler arm with roller bearings. These can last forever if kept well greased.
Also open hood and look to see if upper horse-shoe shaped suspension arm shims are tight. If any of the bolts are loose, you may have lost shims on the road, not only accounting for loose steering but badly throwing your front end alignment off. This can be temporarily remedied by adding shims to fill the void just long enough to take the car to y6our favorite front end alignment specialist.
Check your steering gearbox worm and roller gear mesh adjustment. Adjust per shop manual directions and re-install cap. Fill the gearbox with 90 wt gear oil.
If the steering did NOT have all that play until after you installed the new control valve, I suppose it is possible that the guy who rebuilt the control valve left some parts out of the drag link inside. That would account for a LOT of play.
In the past, I have always tried to hold a rebuilt control valve in my hand and move the drag link ball stud with my other hand. It should not be loose at all. You can also check it if it is already installed on the car by disconnecting the drag link ball stud from the sector arm and push the whole steering arm upward enough to try to move that ball stud back-and-forth. If it is not loose, it is okay.
Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
My mistake. Never mind...
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
Not at all. Sometimes I won't even answer a post if the guy doesn't even tell you the most basic information about what he is working with.
I just love the ones that go all into telling about their problem, but they don't tell you year, which engine, whether manual or power option, etc.
They're not all the same.
The only way I knew he had PS, is because he posted another thread recently related to his PS hoses in that car.
Ole Don
Well-known member
One more tidbit I learned over the years; before tightening the nut, the book says to set the preload. Best to find a copy of the proper instructions for this. When I did all of the above, the lube level was low. I filled it with straight STP. I used it on another car too. It works great, is thick enough to not run out, thin enough to move when cold, and oily enough to lube the parts.
Old Redneck
Well-known member
The 56 T-Bird steering is very nice turns super nice left or right. BUT way to much play about 6 inch play between left and right. I just made a appointment to have the front end check out to see where the excess play is. Monday at 8AM. This winter I am having the carb. built because it stumbles a little bit when you first take off. Beside that it runs perfect, idle nice and smooth on the road.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The bottom seals on the sector shaft are not too hard to replace. Higher viscosity lube can be used but SAE-90 will work with a good sector shaft seal.
STP or scientifically treated petroleum, is supposed to be mixed with the regular lubricants as a viscosity builder. STP recommends adding it in a 10% ratio with gear lube if used in transmissions or rear axles. I don't think is has all that good of an anti corrosion property to it by itself and it has some solvent characteristics as well. It's designed to me mixed in varying ratios depending on the application. I wouldn't want anything in there with ZDDP in it. That stuff is for engines.
MrTexas has a good breakdown of STP in this thread on post #16.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9913&showall=1
STP or scientifically treated petroleum, is supposed to be mixed with the regular lubricants as a viscosity builder. STP recommends adding it in a 10% ratio with gear lube if used in transmissions or rear axles. I don't think is has all that good of an anti corrosion property to it by itself and it has some solvent characteristics as well. It's designed to me mixed in varying ratios depending on the application. I wouldn't want anything in there with ZDDP in it. That stuff is for engines.
MrTexas has a good breakdown of STP in this thread on post #16.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9913&showall=1
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