How bad is this crack?

T

Terranova

Senior Member
We were cleaning up the frame tonight and once we got past the rust we found these cracks. Can I just “weld them up” and it be ok?


Radiator side
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Engine side
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What’s the verdict?
 
The question is . . . how good of a welder are you?

I would have no problem grinding out those cracks, establishing a good 'v-weld' base and putting my TIG welder to work. With that said, I want it to be done correctly and would not let somebody with a "grease gun" MIG just throw down a weld. (With this said, I have no problems with MIG welders . . . in the right hands).

If you have the equipment and skills (with proper prep), not a problem.
 
can you get the member out it would be a lot easier to repair as you need to V out both sides warm gently with a lpg torch make sure you find the end of each and every branch[ or it will keep cracking ] stop drill at the ends of each crack then preheat with lpg flame [a lot cleaner than acetylene] to about 200f then tig back from the drill holes towards the centre of the crack cluster
 
PS had another look at photos is this single thickness if not you will need to split them apart repair individually and then refix back together other option would be to remove the damaged section entirely then fab an insert weld in and reinforce as required
 
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If not repaired correctly, they can come back to haunt you.....they can turn-out UGLY! NOS ones are still out there, and may be a reasonable option! A friend replaced this one with NOS on a '35 pick-up. DD


469042
 
I had this problem with a '36 I had years ago. Back then, you could get a replacement crossmember from Precision Coachworks in Billerica, MA. If fit perfectly and solved the problem, The owner of that enterprise passed away a few years ago but I hear someone else has picked up at least part of his business. It would be worth looking into.

You could also check with some of the "more experienced" parts vendors as well.

EDIT : Here's a link to an earlier thread about this : https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1181886.
 
It's not unusual for crack's to form in that location, caused by years of the spring and axle flexing up and down. It's not a big deal for a competent welder and way too much work in removing all the rivets and re-riveting the crossmember back into place.
 
woodiewagon46 said:
It's not unusual for crack's to form in that location, caused by years of the spring and axle flexing up and down. It's not a big deal for a competent welder and way too much work in removing all the rivets and re-riveting the crossmember back into place.
Click to expand...

I don't remember it being such an onerous task. Plus, I don't like welds on a frame or grinding them down.
 
I had one (34) that was much worse than what you show. Bad enough that the spring pounded the crossmember upward. And, that forced the crossmember length to increase. and that pushed the framerails out... So, finding another crossmember was the fix for my 34. Just sayin...
 
V it, and weld it. Make sure good penetration. You can use mig. Used on the 1" thick I -beam dragline booms at work. If mig works on a 300' foot, 300 ton boom supporting a 150 ton load 180 feet out from machine, I think it will work on a lil ol car frame. Oh yeah, this is obviously done by certified welders, with mig and no fish plate.
 
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aussie merc said:
PS had another look at photos is this single thickness if not you will need to split them apart repair individually and then refix back together other option would be to remove the damaged section entirely then fab an insert weld in and reinforce as required
Click to expand...

I would take the other option, cut out the damaged section and replace.
My experience has been that those fatigue cracks tend to spider web and the
metal in that area is fatigued and will continue cracking.
Bill
 
I welded a couple that were a lot worse than that about 10 years ago and they are still going.
V out cracks so 100% weld is possible.
Wash weld area with acetone.
Pre-heat to 300F.
Tig weld with ER70 rod.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT ALLOW ANY UNDERCUT.
DO NOT BREAK ARC OFF AT WELD END. CUT ARC OFF WITH PEDAL.
DO NOT GRIND ON WELDED AREA AFTER DONE WELDING. (If you can't lay dimes, get someone that can. This is not an area to be practicing welding on)
Cool under blanket.
 
Absolutely Pete, the only thing I would add to your procedure is that I would drill a 1/8" hole at the end of each crack to keep it from migrating. Total time of the repair would be about an hour. Time to drill out the stock rivets and install new ones would probably be an all day job. I just replaced the front crossmember in a Model A and removing the Ford rivet's was a pain. Installing the new rivet's was a bigger pain. Don't make this a bigger deal than it is.
 
I had a good looking one cracked like that. I used a 37 frontend on model AV8 and needed a wider slot so I fabbed a piece that would fit in place of what I had to cut out. I gas weld tacked in place and had it migged by someone that had a serious machine, good job. I would stick weld it myself now. Working with trucks see cracks & busted leaves cause by loose fasteners
 

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me again another 2 cents worth on refitting you need to look at the factory process and i dought that all but a few of us could replicate it i mean rivets have to be the correct temp and peened correctly within a given time as cold rivets just dont work and come loose personally i would bolt it back in Bolts fitted correctly and torqued correctly will last as long if not longer and dont think its a 2 minuet job and as for the doughters Mack and Kenworth chassis are all bolted together
 
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